Yeah when I look for it all I find is the clear version, I know what you are talking about I have a glock 17. I think I found something that is very rigid and is used on alot of car parts already and priced very well, black phenolic.
gm makes brake calipers with phenolic pistons, it holds up to that LOL
Silly Ram's 5.7L's are for Tundra's
'12 Rock Warrior Crewmax
magnaflow / 2" leveling kit / airlift loadlifter 5k / TRD CAI with afE pro dry s / TRD rear sway bar / XSP LED DRL's
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Here is the thing, yesterday I spent about two hours with the company that will cut these out for me, because we decided that ABS will not handle the heat, so we are researching trying to find the correct plastic to handle the heat and be rigid enough so it won't flex with the fans. At the moment I am building a kit for a guy that ordered one and I have already ordered the variable controller, the fans and everything else I need. My patern is with the company with all the specs just waiting for the correct material, but I have time due to the fact that the controller takes a week or two to get built. If I cannot find the correct plastic I can always revert back to the aluminum as it is rigid enough and will handle the heat, these kits are ready for sale as I am pretty buch custom building them anyhow, I prefer to talk business on the phone.
So here is the updates I promised, I have spent about two keeks getting drawings made for programs to be produced so that the mounting plates could be cut out on a CNC plasma for more quality and precision. I currently have enough to do five kits not including the parts, I have also went to the DC controls PWM controller that variably controls the fans according to the engine temps. Something else that I am very happy about is the parts are now beeing powder coated with a textured black paint that is very similar to the under hood parts.
I currently have an updated kit installed on my Tundra that is working very well with no problems, the new kits do not require the upper hose to be cut due to the probe that just pushes into the radiator fins and only rquire two wires to be hooked up power and ground. The controller has wires that can be hooked up for fan operation with the A/C on and wires so the fan can be turned off for low water crossing. I am asking in the $5-600.00 range for the kits not including shipping. Here is some new pics with directions, Thankyou for beeing so supportive!
Here is what is included in the kit, fan assembly prewired, extra wiring for optional A/C and manual control, and new bolts for clutch fan delete!
1.The first step is to disconnect ground from battery and driverside fender.
2. Remove engine cover as it well help to have it out of the way.
3. Remove fuse cover and disconnect power wire using a 10mm and then with a small flat head insert into tabs to slide power wire up along with plastic cover and then remove the cover as it will not be needed.
4. Remove lower engine cover with ratchet and extension, 3 10mm in front and 2 12mm in front and 3 12mm in back, ounce removed the cover will held on by two hooks in front so slide them to driverside and lower.
5. Locate the drain cock on the bottom of radiator and drain about half a gallon of coolant into a clean container as it will be reused later. Note: this will make it possible to remove upper radiator hose and the cap can be taken off to increase flow ounce a little of the pressure has been relieved via hose.
6. Remove upper hose to gain access to radiator area and to remove shroud.
7. Locate clutch fan bolts and remove the nuts by holding one bolt with wrench to keep the pulley from spinning while loosening another. Note: The nuts will come off but not the studs, the studs will have to be accessed ounce the shroud and clutch fan is removed, the studs have to be removed to install the new bolts, by tightening two nuts together on each stud efectively creating a way to remove studs with ratchet.
8. Disconnect overflow hose from radiator near cap, and unfasten hose clamp from transmission hoses from passenger side shroud using a long slender flat head screwdriver and move hoses out of way for reoval of shroud.
9. Remove the two screws holding the shroud at the top, and remove both the shroud and clutch fan together, taking care not to damage radiator fins and spilling the coolant out of shroud overflow tank.
10. At this time you may remove clutch fan studs and install new bolts per vehicle torque specs.
11. Now install the new electric cooling fan assembly and take care not to damage radiator fins. Note the lower radiator hose will make diffcult to slide into place but it will fit, now install bolts per vehicle torque specs.
12. Locate a clean rag and some alcahol and clean raditor hose and water necks contact points of coolant as there is a possibilty of leaking, and then install factory radiator hose with there spring clamps.
13. Locate factory shroud/overflowtank and drain the remainder coolant into the clean container for reuse and remove hose and reinstall onto new overflow tank.
14. Run the two wires for power and ground from the cooling fan kit to driver side fender, using a zip tie and a the supplied wire clamp to left cooling fan bolt, and then attaching black ground to the driverside fender grounding point and the power wire to fuse box power lug and tighten all hardware to vehicle torque specs.
15. Reinstall negative batter cable to factory torque specs and reinstall fuse over.
16. Gain access to the black sensor wire behind lower cooling fan rubber relief valve and insall end into a cooling fin, at this time you may reinstall lower engine cover and remove all tools from engine caompartment making sure to refill radiator and coolant tank with the used coolant.
17. Drive and test the operation of the fans as it is set for a 180* theremostat and can adjusted via side screw, read directions for fan controller carefully!
If there is any questions regarding the kit contact me at 660-441-3569, I will include the shipping container for the fan controller and directions. If there is any questions regarding the controller the manufacturers contact info is in there as well, save the electric fan controller box for warranty issues!
Last edited by texasranger96; 12-02-2012 at 09:20 PM.
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Yeah man you wouldn't believe the crap that I have went through to make it this point I am very happy how it has turned out, it was really nice driving it earlier with the new PWM controller very quiet as it only requests the required fan speed for the given temp, thanks for the compliment!
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