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#1 (permalink) Old 06-28-2012, 05:08 PM
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ASP Pulleys

As some of you already know, I ordered a smaller SC pulley from ASP Racing. I was going to make the same setup as Supercharged did (Bigger Crank pulley and smaller Water Pump pulley). But he told me to get the SC pulley instead, because its cheaper, easier to install, and most importantly, give the same amount of boost as the other two pulleys together.

I will probably get the other two eventually if Spoolin gets his tuning setup working on our trucks or just another stand alone ECU.

The SC pulley was shipped two days ago and should be at my apartment by Monday. I know a great guy who has a shop that would do the installation for $50. The problem is, he won't be in town for two weeks. And I don't know if I could wait for that long .

One more thing, if the Pulley is smaller I assume the belt should get shorter as well. Any suggestions on how to find the right size?

Thanks guys!

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#2 (permalink) Old 06-28-2012, 09:12 PM
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BRX good luck with the smaller pulley. Make sure to have a wideband AFR before you install the pulley. I think you are the first to try the sc pulley. The belt tensioner should allow for the smaller pulley without changing the belt. Make sure whoever takes the pulleys of the supercharger knows what they are doing.

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#3 (permalink) Old 06-29-2012, 11:20 AM
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I'm posting this as a heads-up, not as a slam to ASP. Keep an eye on the pulley. I had an ASP UDP that separated from the center hub. I don't know what caused it, but it happened. ASP makes a good pulley and I've never heard of it happening to anyone else. All I'm saying is to keep an eye on it. If for some reason you do have issues with it, Powerbond makes a one-piece pulley for the Silverado's...not sure if they make them for Toyota or not.
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#4 (permalink) Old 06-29-2012, 01:31 PM
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You could also contact March, they will make anything you want.

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#5 (permalink) Old 06-29-2012, 02:16 PM
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The water pump pulley I got from ASP is solid work. I think they are the only company producing pulleys for the SC Tundras. If there is ever a tune for our trucks then more companies will start producing them also.

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#6 (permalink) Old 06-29-2012, 06:04 PM
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Whats the cost for the S/C pulley? I looked on their website and didn't see one. How much extra boost? (maybe 2 pounds) How much of a difference does this make in power?

Thanks.

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#7 (permalink) Old 06-29-2012, 06:30 PM
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The SC pulley will hopefully add 2 psi (~50 hp) and cost $160 including shipping. The other two are about $360 if I remember correctly and add the same amount of power. There is a formula that you can find online that shows how to convert psi's to horsepower.

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#8 (permalink) Old 06-30-2012, 11:16 AM
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Is the factory computer able to compensate for the added boost since we can't tune the trucks yet? Also, does the pulley just come off with a pulley puller or is it more involved. I've changed the pulley on my Cobra many times and that was very easy.

2008 CrewMax 5.7, TRD, Supercharger, Dual exh, 12" lift w/ coilovers, 38" Toyo M/Ts, Procomp rims, backflip F1, Bushwacker flares, 4.88 gears, Auburn LSD, Total Caos UCAs, Readylift Steering, Rangers fan kit, Bully Dog GT Tuner

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#9 (permalink) Old 06-30-2012, 12:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BRX View Post
As some of you already know, I ordered a smaller SC pulley from ASP Racing. I was going to make the same setup as Supercharged did (Bigger Crank pulley and smaller Water Pump pulley). But he told me to get the SC pulley instead, because its cheaper, easier to install, and most importantly, give the same amount of boost as the other two pulleys together.

I will probably get the other two eventually if Spoolin gets his tuning setup working on our trucks or just another stand alone ECU.

The SC pulley was shipped two days ago and should be at my apartment by Monday. I know a great guy who has a shop that would do the installation for $50. The problem is, he won't be in town for two weeks. And I don't know if I could wait for that long .

One more thing, if the Pulley is smaller I assume the belt should get shorter as well. Any suggestions on how to find the right size?

Thanks guys!

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I could see doing the larger lower crank pulley on our trucks as a way of increasing the boost but the drawback there is that everything is going to be spinning faster minus the water pump if you also purchase the larger pulley that they sell for that.

With regards to the supercharger pulley, its already so small that the belt contact surface is so little that going any smaller could result in major belt slippage. Plus the fact that getting the blower pulley off safely requires a puller that contacts the entire pulley and thats just not possible with the current size and location of the factory pulley.

A smaller blower pulley looks like its also going to require some grinding of the blower snout to obtain the clearence needed.

Ive been installing blower pulleys for the past 15yrs and have just about every puller imaginable but havent found even one that would work safely on our blowers without removing it, and even then its risky because of the tight working area around the pulley. So if your guy said that he could do it fo 50 bucks I say go for it ! I would also like to know what kind of puller he used and your before and after boost readings. Keep us informed on your progress!

Last edited by DHentz; 06-30-2012 at 12:43 PM.
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#10 (permalink) Old 06-30-2012, 01:03 PM
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He's been custom building +1000 HP vehicles for the last 30 years. 3 of my close friends have their engines built by him and their solid work. He also has done superchargers, turbos and pro chargers. That's why I'm willing to wait two weeks just to get the job done by him and no one else. And about the $50, that's what he charges for an hour. Since I'm new to all of this I thought a pulley change (specially since its right out there) wouldn't require that long to install . Seems like I need to save a little more money for the installation

Thanks for all the info guys!

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'07 2WD RCSB 5.7L Tundra
TRD SC, Haltech EMS, ASP All Pulleys, Spoolin Shift Kit, Walbro 485 FP, ID1000cc Injectors, AIRAID CAI, Hayden Transmission Cooler, Ranger E-Fan
JBA Long Tube Headers, True-Dual 3" BAMufflers & Mid-pipes
TRD Sway Bar, Belltech 442SP, Caltracs Drag Profile Traction Bars
TRD Forged 22" W/ Hankook Ventus ST RH06, Pro Comp 16" W/ M&H Cheater Slicks
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#11 (permalink) Old 06-30-2012, 05:05 PM
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I can see what Dhentz is sayin. There is not a lot of room to work with around the snout.

I will also be curious as to if he needs to remove material on the snout for the smaller pulley.....It's tight.

Belt slip would be my major concern. I get a some slip now, and I have tried every belt there is.

At what point does this blower become a heat pump?
We have to be towards the upper end of performance level (efficiency) for this CI charger. The Vettes went to the 2300 series. Anyone have a map?

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#12 (permalink) Old 06-30-2012, 05:06 PM
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#13 (permalink) Old 06-30-2012, 05:58 PM
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#14 (permalink) Old 06-30-2012, 06:29 PM
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So the sweet spot on the 1900 has the blower speed between 7500-10,500ish, is 76%, and has a Pressure ratio of 1.55 to 1.65. That's what....8-10psi ?
Looks like you can up the boost on this 1900 and do well as long as the RPM stays in check. Obviously, the air pump is only as efficient as the supporting components.

Good reading and reference.
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Quote:
Boost or Pressure Ratio

When most people discuss superchargers, they talk about boost which is the difference between atmospheric and manifold absolute pressure (MAP). For example: if sea level pressure on a standard day is 14.69 psi and the MAP inside the engine of your '09 ZR1 is 25.15 psi, then the blower boost is 10.5 psi.

The problem with "boost" is that, while it's useful in marketing superchargers, for bragging rights and does offer a simple way to quantify a blower's performance, a more accurate benchmark, and the way most supercharger engineers quantify efficiency, is "pressure ratio" which is a measure not skewed by atmospheric conditions or mechanical constraints in the system such as intake restriction.

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#15 (permalink) Old 06-30-2012, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by BRX View Post
He's been custom building +1000 HP vehicles for the last 30 years. 3 of my close friends have their engines built by him and their solid work. He also has done superchargers, turbos and pro chargers. That's why I'm willing to wait two weeks just to get the job done by him and no one else. And about the $50, that's what he charges for an hour. Since I'm new to all of this I thought a pulley change (specially since its right out there) wouldn't require that long to install . Seems like I need to save a little more money for the installation

Thanks for all the info guys!

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Im sure that he does great work. I wasnt doubting that. I was just wondering what kind of a puller he was going to use to get it off safely and the new one on?

I cant see any of the standard pullers being used other than making a custom one up.

Plus the belt slip issue might reduce some of the boost gains.

Even before I got the blower in my shop I was thinking about putting a smaller pulley on it. But after I opened the box and saw how small it was already I thought not going to happen.

Our blowers come with the smallest pulley that I have ever seen on a factory set up.

I hope it works out for you because I think that your the first one that has done the blower pulley ( At least that i know of )

If It works well for you maybe we can get ASP to copy the puller he uses and offer it for sale or rent with the smaller pulley.

I will be next in line to put one on my beast if it works out for you

Last edited by DHentz; 06-30-2012 at 06:47 PM.
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