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#1 (permalink) Old 07-06-2010, 10:13 PM
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warped rotors under warranty?

My 07 5.7L tundra has about 25K miles on it...the rotor warped already
I also have extended plat warranty but I know rotor/pads are NOT covered under extended warranty...but I'm still in the normal basic 3 years/36k miles warranty....does basic factory warranty cover warped rotors? thanks.
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#2 (permalink) Old 07-06-2010, 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by randomwalk101 View Post
My 07 5.7L tundra has about 25K miles on it...the rotor warped already
I also have extended plat warranty but I know rotor/pads are NOT covered under extended warranty...but I'm still in the normal basic 3 years/36k miles warranty....does basic factory warranty cover warped rotors? thanks.
I don't think so buddy. I believe it was covered under the 12mo/12k miles warranty, not B2B.



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#3 (permalink) Old 07-07-2010, 07:35 AM
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"Warped rotors" is a general term that covers several different problems. It will depend on what is actually wrong and mostly on the dealer that you go to.

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#4 (permalink) Old 07-07-2010, 08:35 AM
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Hard time

Dodge did it for me once and the way it was explained to me is under certain circumstances, the manufacturer grants dealers a bit of wiggle-room for goodwill brake work. But that's in the first 12000 miles. Mine were done at 7800. Beyond that it's a goodwill thing between you and the dealer, not a warranty thing.

Alot of people gear up and fight the good fight but... realize if this is what you got out of the factory stuff, it'll happen again and you'll have to come out of pocket. Instead of postponing that, just do it now so you don't have to worry about rotors again for 50-100K. I got one goodwill rotor job on an old truck at 7800 miles. They started going bad again at 12K, I ignored it until I felt like dealing with it at 45K, then it was BENDIX and RAYBESTOS stuff. Same rotors were on the truck not even half worn and still true when I got rid of the truck at 75K.

Last edited by eharri3; 07-07-2010 at 10:55 AM.
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#5 (permalink) Old 07-07-2010, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by eharri3 View Post
Dodge did it for me once and the way it was explained to me is under certain circumstances, the manufacturer grants dealers a bit of wiggle-room for goodwill brake work. But that's in the first 12000 miles. Mine were done at 7800. Beyond that it's a goodwill thing, not a warranty thing.

Alot of people gear up and fight the good fight but... realize if this is what you got out of the factory stuff, it'll happen again and you'll have to come out of pocket. Instead of postponing that, just do it now so you don't have to worry about rotors again for 50-100K. I got one goodwill rotor job on an old truck at 7800 miles. They started going bad again at 12K, I ignored it until I felt like dealing with it at 45K, then it was BENDIX and RAYBESTOS stuff. Same rotors were on the truck not even half worn and still true when I got rid of the truck at 75K.
Are you suggesting the brake pads are causing the rotors to 'warp'?



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#6 (permalink) Old 07-07-2010, 10:31 AM
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No TSB's on brake issues for 07/08 out there. Sometimes when there is a TSB on a 12/12 item the TSB supercedes it and it gets covered under 3/36.
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#7 (permalink) Old 07-07-2010, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clark123456 View Post
Are you suggesting the brake pads are causing the rotors to 'warp'?
They are not necessarily the root cause, although when matching pads and rotors you have to take into account that the harder material will cause the softer material to wear away faster.

Lots of things can cause 'warpage'. And deformation of the actual rotor as a unit, what you usually think of when you hear 'warping', isn't always what's happening.

Basically what's going on is something caused the pad not to have an even mating surface with the rotor, leading to uneven transfer of material and uneven contact between the bad and the rotor. Which eventually leads to the pads biting away certain surfaces of the rotor faster than others. Once you're THERE, you're gonna get that vibration in the wheel when braking which makes it feel like the rotor is deformed, when it's actually that something has caused it to wear unevenly to the point where you can feel that sensation in the steering wheel.

If the rotor were actually DEFORMED and that was the only problem, shaving it down would not solve anything as you would end up with a thinner rotor but still the same uneven surface. But the rotor is actually UNEVEVENLY WORN, which means if you shave the top layer of material it will temporarily solve the problem because the mating surface between the pad and rotor becomes even again. Deformation is a cause of the problem, but it usually eventually goes away. When the rotor returns to its normal shape the DEFORMATION issue is replaced by a properly shaped rotor with an unevenly worn surface. If we do a really hard panic stop, the vibration we feel right after is from sudden heat buildup and uneven dissipation, and the resulting temporary deformation of the rotor. If we cool them down gradually all goes back to normal. If we don't, the vibration worsens as the DEFORMATION causes UNEVEN WEAR.

It can happen from rust build-up, hydrostatic shock which causes the rotor to temporarily deform and then not mate properly with the pad, or even just a couple of really hard panic stops where you don't follow up with smoother more gradual braking to cool the rotor down more slowly. Any time that rotor heats up really quickly and doesn't dissipate the heat gradually enough you will have this problem.

I believe part of the problem is whatever materials the manufacturers are using for OEM rotors on heavier trucks nowadays just don't have a good enough heat resistance to stand up to the abuse that the braking system on a 5-6000 pound vehicle will normally see. Which is why it is quite common to hear about low mileage 'warped' rotor issues in every make and model of heavier SUV and pickup while you don't hear about it as much in passenger vehicles. Fords have it, Chevies have it, Toyotas have it, and Dodges DEFINITELY have it. It's also quite common on low mileage vehicles, such as the OP's 07 with 25K. I can occasionally feel some very miniscule vibration on my 09, which was 12K miles in on it in 15 months of ownership and often sits without moving for a few days to a week at a time. In that situation, you have to periodically do some firm braking followed by progressively more gradual stops to break up the corrosion on the brake linings then give the rotors a chance to cool off slowly.

You will also hear stories of brand new vehicles that sat on a lot for a few months, only being driven a few miles, developing these symptoms.

This is why I won't go OEM if it ain't free. If I can get my one goodwill rotor job within those first 12K miles I'll go for it, after that I go aftermarket for pads and rotors and never look back. My experience has been anywhere from 25-30% more pad life and almost non-existent rotor problems with properly chosen aftermarket brake combos.

Last edited by eharri3; 07-07-2010 at 12:27 PM.
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#8 (permalink) Old 07-07-2010, 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by eharri3 View Post
They are not necessarily the root cause, although when matching pads and rotors you have to take into account that the harder material will cause the softer material to wear away faster.

Lots of things can cause 'warpage'. And deformation of the actual rotor as a unit, what you usually think of when you hear 'warping', isn't always what's happening.

Basically what's going on is something caused the pad not to have an even mating surface with the rotor, leading to uneven transfer of material and uneven contact between the bad and the rotor. Which eventually leads to the pads biting away certain surfaces of the rotor faster than others. Once you're THERE, you're gonna get that vibration in the wheel when braking which makes it feel like the rotor is deformed, when it's actually that something has caused it to wear unevenly to the point where you can feel that sensation in the steering wheel.

If the rotor were actually DEFORMED and that was the only problem, shaving it down would not solve anything as you would end up with a thinner rotor but still the same uneven surface. But the rotor is actually UNEVEVENLY WORN, which means if you shave the top layer of material it will temporarily solve the problem because the mating surface between the pad and rotor becomes even again. Deformation is a cause of the problem, but it usually eventually goes away. When the rotor returns to its normal shape the DEFORMATION issue is replaced by a properly shaped rotor with an unevenly worn surface. If we do a really hard panic stop, the vibration we feel right after is from sudden heat buildup and uneven dissipation, and the resulting temporary deformation of the rotor. If we cool them down gradually all goes back to normal. If we don't, the vibration worsens as the DEFORMATION causes UNEVEN WEAR.

It can happen from rust build-up, hydrostatic shock which causes the rotor to temporarily deform and then not mate properly with the pad, or even just a couple of really hard panic stops where you don't follow up with smoother more gradual braking to cool the rotor down more slowly. Any time that rotor heats up really quickly and doesn't dissipate the heat gradually enough you will have this problem.

I believe part of the problem is whatever materials the manufacturers are using for OEM rotors on heavier trucks nowadays just don't have a good enough heat resistance to stand up to the abuse that the braking system on a 5-6000 pound vehicle will normally see. Which is why it is quite common to hear about low mileage 'warped' rotor issues in every make and model of heavier SUV and pickup while you don't hear about it as much in passenger vehicles. Fords have it, Chevies have it, Toyotas have it, and Dodges DEFINITELY have it. It's also quite common on low mileage vehicles, such as the OP's 07 with 25K. I can occasionally feel some very miniscule vibration on my 09, which was 12K miles in on it in 15 months of ownership and often sits without moving for a few days to a week at a time. In that situation, you have to periodically do some firm braking followed by progressively more gradual stops to break up the corrosion on the brake linings then give the rotors a chance to cool off slowly.

You will also hear stories of brand new vehicles that sat on a lot for a few months, only being driven a few miles, developing these symptoms.

This is why I won't go OEM if it ain't free. If I can get my one goodwill rotor job within those first 12K miles I'll go for it, after that I go aftermarket for pads and rotors and never look back. My experience has been anywhere from 25-30% more pad life and almost non-existent rotor problems with properly chosen aftermarket brake combos.
Thank you for a thoughtful and complete answer. I just bought new rotors so I could have one set getting turned while I drive on the other set. I must say, I had problems around 25K miles, which is when I bought the truck (used obviously); however, I owned my '05 4Runner for ~85K miles with no problems. It sucks to have brake problems.



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#9 (permalink) Old 07-07-2010, 09:30 PM
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I hope you're lucky in getting that fixed because GM after 7500 miles the rotors are no longer covered and the pads too. If you can get them to state 12,000 miles that's good but at 25,000 I don't see them covering the rotors. Cost $98 for them to just inspect and state nothing wrong. Then took it in 2 days later and cost another $100 to turn all four rotors and drums. Still had the vibration in the rear so I didn't go for a third trip. I just got rid of the truck. Have 89200 miles and haven't had any issue with rotors and my rear pads are at 17% and the front down to 42% on the pads. These are the original pads. I only tow a 18 foot boat fishing period.

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#10 (permalink) Old 07-07-2010, 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Mickey View Post
I hope you're lucky in getting that fixed because GM after 7500 miles the rotors are no longer covered and the pads too. If you can get them to state 12,000 miles that's good but at 25,000 I don't see them covering the rotors. Cost $98 for them to just inspect and state nothing wrong. Then took it in 2 days later and cost another $100 to turn all four rotors and drums. Still had the vibration in the rear so I didn't go for a third trip. I just got rid of the truck. Have 89200 miles and haven't had any issue with rotors and my rear pads are at 17% and the front down to 42% on the pads. These are the original pads. I only tow a 18 foot boat fishing period.
Mickey, are those percentages the used or available percents?



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#11 (permalink) Old 07-07-2010, 09:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mickey View Post
I hope you're lucky in getting that fixed because GM after 7500 miles the rotors are no longer covered and the pads too. If you can get them to state 12,000 miles that's good but at 25,000 I don't see them covering the rotors. Cost $98 for them to just inspect and state nothing wrong. Then took it in 2 days later and cost another $100 to turn all four rotors and drums. Still had the vibration in the rear so I didn't go for a third trip. I just got rid of the truck. Have 89200 miles and haven't had any issue with rotors and my rear pads are at 17% and the front down to 42% on the pads. These are the original pads. I only tow a 18 foot boat fishing period.
I helped a buddy of mine change rear pads on his tahoe...He swears he has never changed the front and that this is the second rear set at 80K miles (he said midas did the first set of rears) How is it the rears are wearing faster than the fronts with the weight transfer that happens during breaking? I'm used to the 2 front to one rear rule (approximately)....not so anymore?
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#12 (permalink) Old 07-07-2010, 09:52 PM
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this is messed up I just had the same issue with my 07 with 30k on the truck so I went yesterday to 2 different places #1 National tire and battery- Rotors are warped pads are good
Local Toyota dealer- Rotors are warped a little pads are good
Toyota resurfaced now no more steering wheel shake

Why don't we just take the safety labels off everything and see what happens?
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#13 (permalink) Old 07-08-2010, 12:00 AM
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I had the same problems with my rotors the dealer told me 12 months and 12,000 miles for warranty and said they recommend i turn them when i put new pads on. I have a 07 trd 4x4 with 15,000 miles and the promblem started at around 11,000 miles. Anyone put slotted rotors or anything better then stock on there truck? and if so how do you like them?
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