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#1 (permalink) Old 06-23-2010, 03:56 PM
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Oil pressure gauge?

So my oil pressure gauge in my truck quit working a few days ago. It would just randomly go all the way to the "H" mark and then back down to the "L", then sometimes it would work normal. I put a new sending unit in it but that didn't fix it so I'm pretty sure its the gauge, and I can't fix that.
So I bought a universal electric gauge and mounted on my A-Pillar. Yall would not believe the oil pressure this thing has!
At first start up in the morning it has about 80lbs at idle! If I rev it up at all it immidiatly goes over 100lbs!
After its warmed up it stays right around 50 lbs while im driving normal, but when i put my foot in it it goes back up to 90 plus psi still!

I just thought this was crazy, I have never seen a stock motor have this much oil pressure!
Especially one that is only running 10w30 and has 260,000+ miles on it


01 Tundra 4x4
4.7L Cold Air intake
True dual flowmaster super 44s
3" Lift in just the front
35x12.50x17 BFGs
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And oh yeah, over a quarter million miles and still counting!
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#2 (permalink) Old 06-23-2010, 04:59 PM
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I would if it has so much oil pressure to engage the VVT system in the engine?

Nothing special. Yet...

2008 Black Double Cab, 5.7L, 4*4, SR5, bed liner and step rails

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#3 (permalink) Old 06-23-2010, 05:12 PM
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I could be wrong but I don't think they started the VVT until 2005. I dont know for sure though.


01 Tundra 4x4
4.7L Cold Air intake
True dual flowmaster super 44s
3" Lift in just the front
35x12.50x17 BFGs
Custom painted pro comp rims
And oh yeah, over a quarter million miles and still counting!
07 Grizzly IRS
Jet kit
27x10x12 Super swamper Vampires
Snorkels
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#4 (permalink) Old 06-23-2010, 05:43 PM
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Oh shoot, I was thinking you had a 2nd gen Tundra... It would help if I read your name and signature...

Nothing special. Yet...

2008 Black Double Cab, 5.7L, 4*4, SR5, bed liner and step rails

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#5 (permalink) Old 06-23-2010, 05:47 PM
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just 260,000 miles and the oil pressure gauge already stopped working....Pffft...They just don't build trucks like they used to.

Seriously, other than that, how has the trucks reliability been?
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#6 (permalink) Old 06-23-2010, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Big Shasta View Post
just 260,000 miles and the oil pressure gauge already stopped working....Pffft...They just don't build trucks like they used to.

Seriously, other than that, how has the trucks reliability been?
I know tell me about it, this thing should still have new car smell with only 260k! haha
In all seriousness the only problems that I've had from this truck were from my own stupidity. She gets used hard and hasnt left me stranded anywhere yet. (knock on wood)
I broke the rear axel at 250,000 miles while i was doing donuts in the mud hole
(understandable and i let it slide, but just this one time)
Then I broke a shock mount and put a nasty dent in the bottom of my bed bc I was hauling waayy to much wieght and it bottomed out hard
(also understandable because what i was pulling would have made my dads Duramax sweat a little)
Other than that I've just had to do regular maintenance, thats usually all she asks for


01 Tundra 4x4
4.7L Cold Air intake
True dual flowmaster super 44s
3" Lift in just the front
35x12.50x17 BFGs
Custom painted pro comp rims
And oh yeah, over a quarter million miles and still counting!
07 Grizzly IRS
Jet kit
27x10x12 Super swamper Vampires
Snorkels

Last edited by 01tuckin35s; 06-23-2010 at 06:27 PM.
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#7 (permalink) Old 06-28-2010, 11:43 AM
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Is this why the new (2nd gen) engines have a cartridge based filter instead of a spin-on filter? We've all heard of bad experiences involving cheap oil filters exploding under high oil pressures, so having only the filter element replaceable eliminates the chance of that happening since the assembly that holds the filter element is designed for re-use and is therefore built better. That way I can use my cheap $7 Fram filter, which is literally just paper and glue, without worrying about classic spin-on Fram quality problems with cardboard supports collapsing, strings, can edge crimp failures and bad flowback prevention and stuck bypass valves.

Also mounting it on the bottom probably means that oil drains INTO it, so that on startup there's already oil ready to go, whereas a top mounted filter would probably drain empty, and take a few seconds to 'recharge' with oil at startup.

Just thinking about this, because some guys like to complain about the fact that it's a cartridge AND on the bottom of the truck supposedly making oil changes difficult and I was thinking that there must be a reason for this (apart from 'ooh we're saving the environment'), since the filter is already connected by hoses (and not integrated INTO the engine itself) so technically it could have been placed anywhere. Just a thought.

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