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post #31 of 48 (permalink) Old 11-06-2016, 06:11 PM Thread Starter
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Figure I will update this thread with money spent due to issues after deciding to keep it.

New battery, 130.00

New battery end terminals, 30.00

F u Sears for having a battery last 2.5 years.

Thank you Toyota for quick disconnects.
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post #32 of 48 (permalink) Old 11-06-2016, 06:25 PM
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Did you figure out the coolant issue?


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post #33 of 48 (permalink) Old 11-06-2016, 08:50 PM Thread Starter
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Did you figure out the coolant issue?
No, just monitoring the situation. I could not find any leaks again when I just did an oil change.
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post #34 of 48 (permalink) Old 11-07-2016, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by theoat View Post
Personally if I were you and wanted peace of mind before deciding to keep it, I think I would take it in to an independent shop to diagnose the coolant loss.
If it's the rad or a pinhole in a hose, etc and you are still content with the truck, make the repair if it's a reasonable cost and hold out to see if 2018 is the magic year.

If it turns out major, start poking around at dealers. By middle of November if you found what you want, get serious and close the deal near the end of the month and ditch your current on trade in.
Only thing better than closing the deal at the end November is doing in in December, but then you risk not finding what you want.
100% this. I don't understand the hesitance to have the coolant issue diagnosed. It seems to me like that would make the decision about whether or not you hold on to the truck much easier to make.

2013 Tundra Crewmax Limited TRD 4x4 (looking to trade down to an older tundra with higher miles)
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post #35 of 48 (permalink) Old 11-07-2016, 10:26 PM Thread Starter
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100% this. I don't understand the hesitance to have the coolant issue diagnosed. It seems to me like that would make the decision about whether or not you hold on to the truck much easier to make.
If I go to Toyota, I do not trust them to diagnose it correctly. Then,
on record, I have attached to my vin number a costly repair that I may not need, and will be seen when I trade.

Same thing with an independent shop, I do not know of any to trust. I think they would cause more problems trying to pressurize the system than actually finding the real issue.

Not willing for either toyota or a shop to say head gasket, pay the money, and still have the same issue. No external leaks that can be seen, so they will just say head gasket, so I guess its kind of diagnosed by myself.

1. Hoses were changed, only the upper and lower radiator hoses as I could not find anything else. My 93 land cruiser had a small diameter coolant hose buried on top of the engine, but I am not aware of anything like this on the tundra.
2. Radiator not leaking.
3. Water pump not leaking
4. No pink crystals anywhere
5. Possibly Huge air pockets in my cooling system
6. Possibly Bleeder valve is open.

Is the coolant bleeder on hard or rubber line?
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post #36 of 48 (permalink) Old 11-07-2016, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 1lowlife View Post
Good..
I'd still have my 05 Tundra if NTB wouldn't have screwed up a spindle on a simple wheel/tire purchase.





But after that fiasco, wife and I felt it was time for a new truck.

Never, ever let NTB touch any of your vehicles...

NTB - National Tire & Battery Auto Centers
What did they do to cause the spindle or wheel bearing to break off (what it appears)? The lug nuts are still there at least hahaha.


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Originally Posted by 93cruiser View Post
If I go to Toyota, I do not trust them to diagnose it correctly. Then,
on record, I have attached to my vin number a costly repair that I may not need, and will be seen when I trade.

Same thing with an independent shop, I do not know of any to trust. I think they would cause more problems trying to pressurize the system than actually finding the real issue.

Not willing for either toyota or a shop to say head gasket, pay the money, and still have the same issue. No external leaks that can be seen, so they will just say head gasket, so I guess its kind of diagnosed by myself.

1. Hoses were changed, only the upper and lower radiator hoses as I could not find anything else. My 93 land cruiser had a small diameter coolant hose buried on top of the engine, but I am not aware of anything like this on the tundra.
2. Radiator not leaking.
3. Water pump not leaking
4. No pink crystals anywhere
5. Possibly Huge air pockets in my cooling system
6. Possibly Bleeder valve is open.

Is the coolant bleeder on hard or rubber line?
Easiest test is a cooling system combustion gas test. You can actually "rent" the tester from most auto parts stores, just gotta buy the liquid.

Lisle tester:Get vehicle warm, bleed pressure, insert tester, connect to a vacuum line, and let it suck air from the cooling system. It will change colors if combustion gasses are present. Will tell you if you have a blown head gasket most of the time.

Uview tester: Pretty much the same, but instead of connecting a vacuum source, you pump the ball to suck air from the system...

Can also buy them for $30-$60 online including test liquid. Cheaper than a shops diag charge.

There are also dip strips, but I have not used those.


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post #37 of 48 (permalink) Old 11-07-2016, 11:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 93cruiser View Post
If I go to Toyota, I do not trust them to diagnose it correctly.
There is a good chance that they will not diagnose it correctly. I have had Toyotas, Hondas, and Nissans and every single time that I brought any vehicle to a dealership I got lied to and screwed.

I have tried 6 different dealerships for all three makes of vehicles. I ended up fixing all the cars myself.

I can tell you that there are very few acceptable shops. The others will rip you off either on purpose or because they don't know how to fix your car. Often they will break stuff on your vehicle and then charge you for it ( "oh, by the way we also found this such and such part was defective and it needed to be replaced") or they will keep replacing parts until finally they fix the problem and then charge you for everything. Some will charge you for parts they never replaced or labor they never did.

I have too many stories to tell but as one example from one of the largest Toyota dealerships in my state, I took in my Toyota Supra because it would run ok but not idle. It would die if you didn't give it gas. After they had the car for 3 days they said it needed a near $2,000 valve job. I said no way and took the car home to fix it myself. After looking under the hood for less than 10 minutes, I noticed the air intake tube had a large golf ball size hole in it and this was throwing off the air meter. So I put some duct tape on it and problem fixed. Later I got a used air intake tube.

As for a mystery coolant loss problem I had with a Nissan, I took the car to a large Nissan dealer. I didn't see any signs at all of any coolant dripping or leaking anywhere so I thought they could diagnose the problem. They told me they did a pressure test on the radiator and the radiator was leaking. They then wanted a lot of money to replace it. I said no thanks and paid for the diagnostic and took the car home. I knew the radiator was not leaking. The radiator caps have a seal and spring and they eventually wear out and the coolant will evaporate out and you will often never see any signs but you can on occasion smell it right after the car is hot. I replaced the cap and it never leaked again. Sold the car about 8 years later.

So if you haven't already, you should try replacing the radiator cap and as for checking for combustion gasses they have youtube videos and lots of info out there on it.

I wouldn't trade your truck in unless you know you have major problems. I think moving to a 2014 and newer Tundra is actually mostly an expensive down grade but that's just my opinion.
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post #38 of 48 (permalink) Old 11-08-2016, 12:31 AM Thread Starter
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100% this. I don't understand the hesitance to have the coolant issue diagnosed. It seems to me like that would make the decision about whether or not you hold on to the truck much easier to make.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sticky View Post
There is a good chance that they will not diagnose it correctly. I have had Toyotas, Hondas, and Nissans and every single time that I brought any vehicle to a dealership I got lied to and screwed.

I have tried 6 different dealerships for all three makes of vehicles. I ended up fixing all the cars myself.

I can tell you that there are very few acceptable shops. The others will rip you off either on purpose or because they don't know how to fix your car. Often they will break stuff on your vehicle and then charge you for it ( "oh, by the way we also found this such and such part was defective and it needed to be replaced") or they will keep replacing parts until finally they fix the problem and then charge you for everything. Some will charge you for parts they never replaced or labor they never did.

I have too many stories to tell but as one example from one of the largest Toyota dealerships in my state, I took in my Toyota Supra because it would run ok but not idle. It would die if you didn't give it gas. After they had the car for 3 days they said it needed a near $2,000 valve job. I said no way and took the car home to fix it myself. After looking under the hood for less than 10 minutes, I noticed the air intake tube had a large golf ball size hole in it and this was throwing off the air meter. So I put some duct tape on it and problem fixed. Later I got a used air intake tube.

As for a mystery coolant loss problem I had with a Nissan, I took the car to a large Nissan dealer. I didn't see any signs at all of any coolant dripping or leaking anywhere so I thought they could diagnose the problem. They told me they did a pressure test on the radiator and the radiator was leaking. They then wanted a lot of money to replace it. I said no thanks and paid for the diagnostic and took the car home. I knew the radiator was not leaking. The radiator caps have a seal and spring and they eventually wear out and the coolant will evaporate out and you will often never see any signs but you can on occasion smell it right after the car is hot. I replaced the cap and it never leaked again. Sold the car about 8 years later.

So if you haven't already, you should try replacing the radiator cap and as for checking for combustion gasses they have youtube videos and lots of info out there on it.

I wouldn't trade your truck in unless you know you have major problems. I think moving to a 2014 and newer Tundra is actually mostly an expensive down grade but that's just my opinion.

I try to do the work myself, I've done clutches, replaced radiators, etc, but some things are beyond me and my time at this point in my life, such as the water pump for example. I agree, unless I know whats wrong going in, its basically a fiasco and money poorly spent and despise going to any shop or dealer.

I am going to kick myself if its the radiator cap, but a cheap attempt. Thanks for the suggestion, I totally overlooked that.
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post #39 of 48 (permalink) Old 11-08-2016, 01:08 AM
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F u Sears for having a battery last 2.5 years.
I still have the original Toyota battery from 2009. Still has full capacity and works great.

Not sure what battery you bought at Sears but I wouldn't recommend them. Many years ago they had sorta decent DieHard batteries but then Exide Technologies started making them and ever since the Sears batteries are often total crap. A battery from Walmart is cheaper and usually better and I think made from Johnson Controls. I have one of the Maxx batteries that is still fine after about 4 years.
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post #40 of 48 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 11:23 PM Thread Starter
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Glad I kept it so far.
141400. Spent 4.26 on tpms leak fix at bj's tire.
Found what I believe is my coolant leak, upper radiator. It appears to have corroded shut, not using much coolant as of lately, but finally may have left a clue to my original issue.
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post #41 of 48 (permalink) Old 02-14-2017, 12:30 AM
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Did not read the whole thread, but sometimes you have to cur your loses my man N'at.
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post #42 of 48 (permalink) Old 02-14-2017, 10:16 AM
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Guess you'll be keeping it until 2020 give or take, now that the 2018's only received a minor refresh.
Not that there's anything wrong with that.....


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post #43 of 48 (permalink) Old 02-14-2017, 12:28 PM
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I'd go shop it, maybe the Toyota dealer will give you a deal you can't refuse, They sell used Tundra's for stupid money around here. Still see a few 2016s floating around.
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post #44 of 48 (permalink) Old 02-14-2017, 05:47 PM
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Garage
Traded my 07 Limited DC in with 171k for a 14 Limited CM with 45k. I think I'm happy with it. It's haunting me as far as having a $600/mo payment again but, having an 8 year bumper to bumper warranty makes me feel a little better about it. I was spooked by transmission slippage and electrical issues with my 07. Figured I'd trade up while there was still value in my 07. I'm still in shock of the whole deal. Wifey keeps busting my balls about having buyers remorse.

I like the updated interior and body style of my 14 but my 07 was sexy...

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post #45 of 48 (permalink) Old 02-14-2017, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
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Guess you'll be keeping it until 2020 give or take, now that the 2018's only received a minor refresh.
Not that there's anything wrong with that.....
yea, that is the plan. I'm not willing to make payments on the same truck. Or actually a more expensive with less options truck, and features deleted.
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