Need help quickly--keep the 08 tundra or get the 2500HD
Gang
I am in need of some recommendations in a hurry. I have a new to me(2 weeks ago) 08 DC Tundra 5.7 4x4 and have recently discovered the dreaded corrosion issue in the bed. Im as disappointed as Ive ever been. Its pretty significant and would require attention/repair. And I may not even be able to stop/contain the rust? So I have spoken with the dealer and it appears I may be able to return it.
The reason I hesitate is I still like the truck and understand buying used anything comes with risk. But is this a blessing in disguise? I ask since I have heavy toys to haul and maybe I should never have gotten this in the first place. My boat weighs in at about 9k loaded and my camper be closer to 10k loaded. I haul on occasion not too often. Sometimes in the hills.
SO do I ditch the tundra and get the 6.0 gm motor and 2500 chassis? I had a 01 2500HD crew 6.0 that did fantastic job of pulling these toys. I will say I want to keep the tundra but feel it may not be the best choice. And a side note---I was just reading and thought the gvwr for a 2500 at 9800lbs?? Which is less than this tundra?
I am at my max allowed spending at $25,000..THATS IT.(this was 24k) thanks for your time.
I see you too found the Gotcha with some 2500 HDs as well. When I was shopping for a truck I test drove a couple of GMC 2500 HDs. During my search process I found that the specs for both trucks I drove showed their "towing capacity" was LESS THAN the Tundra by more than a couple 100 lbs. Seems that the combination of features and rear axle dropped their towing capacity numbers. That is when I learned not to Assume that just because a truck is an "2500 HD" that it's towing specs are higher than the Tundra's.
BTW, yes I know that the "towing capacity" number is not the end-all-be-all when it comes to towing. But it was still a number that some ambulance chasing lawyer could use at some point in the event of a accident/lawsuit.
thanks! dealer is about 5 hours away but maybe get him to pay a good portion? I think where I struggle the most with this is the towing ability of this tundra. If I knew it could perform exactly as my 01 2500hd crew did, I would keep it. I do not know that as of now and haven't towed heavily. I feel this could be a 2nd chance for me to get a more capable truck to tow my heavy toys?? My camper is a couple hours away thats why Im hoping for some good points to consider.
Hmmm - I have similar bubbles under my Line-X, although mine is a 2000 Tundra so it's quite a few years older. I had suspected it was rust but never did crawl underneath to take a good look. A couple of years ago the frame was replaced under the frame recall program so maybe I can get by for now until holes start to appear.
I have seen worse rust on most 2008's, hell, even newer trucks, ALL trucks for that matter... That is all based on prior owners care practices.
Depends on what you can find available used.
Too many people buy used and never crawl underneath to inspect for that before just buying.
Today had a 2010 F250 in for plow install. EVERYTHING underneath was rusted worse than your pics. Body looked clean. Someone wheeled it out so it was nice and shiny. Guy had just bought it and never looked under.
Did a 2009 or 10 F150 last week, was wayyyy worse underneath. I mean wayyyyyyyy worse, but once again, paint was nice and shiny, guy had literally just bought 3 days before. He thought it was a clean truck, even commented on how clean it was while instructing him on plow operation.
The bed bolts surface rust is common, not really a huge issue, just sucks to look at. Could be remedied easily.
The underneath rust doesn't actually look that bad for an 08. Could still be treated and prevented from getting worse.
I had a 2500 hd. My towing was rated at 10,200 at the time. My Tundra was rated around the same, just less rgawr and fgawr than my 2500.
IF you can find a clean 3/4 ton for a good price with reasonable miles in CLEANER condition, then maybe go that route. Look underneath at the power steering, oil cooler, and trans cooler lines. They are an issue on every 3/4 + gm for some reason. Also quick indicator of previous owners care is look at the coil packs mounted on the valve covers. If they are rusting bad, likely everything else underneath is starting to as well. For some reason GM's coil packs rust up, seems they don't coat them with anything. If someone never opened the hood to clean the engine compartment, likely they never even looked underneath, let-alone did anything other than drive thru car washes.
I just noticed the bubbles in the spray-in. Look underneath in those spots and see how it looks. LIkely coming from the bottom up. This is common on all makes to rust from the underside up.
Thank you. Would you say your tundra towed as well as your 2500hd or was it lacking ? The pics I took are the area immediately below the bubbled areas. Otherwise the underside of the truck isn't too bad. Its spotty but most places are clean i.e. fender areas etc.
The 5.7 Tundra tows easier than my 6.0 3/4 did. I can't say it has enough payload to tow the same total weight due to hitch weight, but when towing what I tow (quad/trailer, used to tow a pop-up etc...) the 5.7 has way more balls, especially with the 4.30 vs the 4.10 I had. The 6.0 isn't really a slouch, but merging and passing the Tundra just has it.
Have also towed with a 6.0 3/4 gm with the 3.75. That truck was lacking compared to my Tundra. That truck was a single cab long bed. My older 3/4 was a crew. Food for thought though, the 3/4 single cab had more payload available than my 3/4, as it had a max payload pkg, but shitty rear end ratio. On paper it was capable of more weight, just was slower while doing less.
Compare both the 3/4 gm's and my Tundra vs an F250 with the 6.2, and the gm's both outperformed the Ford in the acceleration/real world merging situations.
I don't tow anything huge. Have towed a 7.5x18 enclosed with the Tundra, flat nose trailer. Had no issues. Accelerated faster on highway than the 6.0 would with just my 5x10 open trailer with the gate on it.
this is a super post! I wonder if the transmission is what makes the difference with the serious load?? How well rated is the Tundra tranny ?? Im feeling better about the truck and with airbags and some 5100s shocks Im thinking I would do ok...I feel better about the tundra.
Sorry if Im skipping around. So if my rusty bed is no longer exposed to rusty chemicals (salt etc) will the rusting continue? If I were to pull the bed, not remove the rusted areas, and blew linex all over the seams would it essentially stop the rusting in its tracks and suspended it in time lol??
If you were to bedline the underside, it would be best to treat it with something first to neutralize the rust.
I would either Por-15, or at least use a naval jelly type neutralizer, then bedline if you are really wanting to bedline the underside.
However, bedliner alone may not stop it unless treated first.
I have 2 spots on the crossmembers that developed surface rust. First one I found about 3 years ago, it has not spread since using fluid film. The other also has not spread. I just cleaned everything good before applying liberally. It basically seals it up. It stays soft though, and does need re-applying periodically.
By small, I mean it is merely surface rust. Fluid film works.
I fluid film once a year. You can't tell my truck is a 2010 from the salt belt underneath.
guys thanks again for the help and opinions. 99% sure I'll keep the tundra. I have until tomrw eve to decide if I'll return it. Powertechn2 are you saying this 4.10 rear I have is a slouch or no?? I saw you said the 4.30 was good
I have the 4.30 in the Tundra. Had the 4.10 in the GM. Also towed with a GM with the 3.73, which was much easier to find once fuel hit higher prices. Even in Mi (home of the big 3), a 4.10 hd gm was hard as hell to find, only reason that truck had the 3.73 with max payload. Weird combo.
I thought the 5.7 Tundra with tow pkg only came with 4.30.
Someone else mentioned fuel economy.
I don't understand how so many guys here get little with their trucks, I regularly get 14-15. Recent trip where I was in traffic, then hauling ass trying to make up for lost time and not be late I still managed 14.9 avg, with 33's, leveled, and driving slightly assholish.
Normal average city is about 12-13ish in winter with remote started before driving for 10 minutes morning, and evening. GM was 10 winter, 13 summer MAX.
The guys I know with new GM 6.0 3/4 tons get 8-10mpg now, even with the revised transmissions.
3/4 tons unless diesel will never get the same mpg that we get unloaded.
As for towing 9000 lbs, I will say the Tundra will still pull easier, just the truck itself is not setup as heavy. Might see more sag, but getting up and out of the way won't be as much of an issue imo.
I've towed with both the same enclosed trailer using a 08 2500HD 6.0 gas and my 5.7 Tundra. The 5.7, IMO, felt was an easier pull and never towed with the 2500 6.0 again after acquiring the Tundra. Also remember when not towing, a 6.0 2500HD is only going to net you I believe 10mpg city and 13mpg highway.
gotcha ....How heavy was the trailer you towed? So now my question is this----they both do very well with trailers on the lighter/smaller side, but who is the winner when it comes to towing a heavy load near 9000lbs THATS what I want to know....whos the winner there because that's my biggest concern.
Nitro - just found your posts here. I also have experience with the 6.0 GM in a 2500. While it is a good motor, and certainly more capable than the 5.3...it's still lacking compared to the 5.7 in the tundra. And that's just the engine! Consider GM's 6L90 transmission here too...I'll take the Aisin-built 6 speed in the tundra any day, and the 4.30 rear end too. I say fix that bed rust issue, put some ride-rites on it, and tow to your hearts desire.
Also to consider - If you can (now discontinued sadly...) get a factory supercharger kit for the tundra, strictly bolt on, with no other drivetrain mods...I'd say that's a real testament to the "overbuilt-ness" of the Tundra and it's powertrain.
But...
If you truly want a 3/4 ton, don't waste your time with a gasser. Go straight for the cummins and don't look at anything else - trust me on that!
Honestly it's probably not that big a deal, but I would take it back if they are letting you and get the 2500 because it's always going to be in your head worrying if the rust is going to get worse.
I towed an almost 9k pound travel trailer a few years ago. Did it about 10 times a year or more. Tundra handled it fine with a weight distribution hitch. I also went to E rated tires but towed on the stock tires for a while. I hooked to 16.5K worth of stuck big cab F350 dually with my camper hooked to him and pulled them up a muddy hill at my farm with ease. Hooked to a big cab Silverado 2500HD with a 16ft gooseneck full of cinder block stuck in mud here at the farm. Don't know the weight but was heavy. Pulled him up the driveway and around the new house. With a 2500 gasser you'll have more payload but the 5.7 and transmission in the Tundra are better. The 6.0 doesn't have the Allison transmission. I don't think. Need to look that up. I hurt both those guys feelings at the farm those days lol. Another guy brought up a Silverado 6.0 HD work truck 2 days ago and it was 2wd and got stuck in the mud and snow he had a trailer full of shingles and a huge bed work/camper like thing on it. I had to pull him sideways to get him straightened up to go back down the driveway. New farm with new house and driveway is testing alot of trucks lol... Tundra has never been stuck with my Trail Grapplers. Hope the new grass grows and the gravel in the driveway settles soon. It's not really a problem though... it's just these people pick the worst places to try and go around the farm. If they'd just stay in the driveway and not try to go around the house and stuff in the fresh graded yard they'd be fine.
Well I hooked up my 26 sea hunt, topped it off with a 150 gallons, filled up the truck, and headed for a steep bridge into a 15 mph wind. Its close to 8k with all that Im guessing. I was actually surprised how well this towed my boat. The bed did sag some but not real bad. I will deal with the rust and for the price I don't think I can go wrong. I will do the airbags and Bilstein 5100 shocks all around. So I have a short time to search for another mint 08-13 dc 4x4 LIMITED(yeah Im greedy) without any rust. BUT I haven't found/seen one within 200 miles in my 25k budget! Im searching all over cargurus, craigslist, ebay all that. Let me know if you see one.
I wanna say thanks to all that took time to answer my questions. I feel much better about my decision to keep the truck and stick with the toyota family for many years to come. Special thanks to JonnyPop09 and Powertechn2. It was very important for me to hear these comments and suggestions. Im gonna be putting this truck to work for several years. Only in the sense of towing my boat and camper a few times a year, but not a work truck or daily driver. I will be a "fluid film" fan for as long as they sell that stuff lol! SURE hope this tundra holds up!
^^^no doubt! It will be put to the test with my 2012 dutchmen 289RKS denali ( aka Deni-me..sorry pos) 7450 lbs dry then all my chit!
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