DIY: 5.7L Oil Change

[mhadden]

As posted on other Tundra sites:

Originally Posted by mhadden

Disclaimer: If you are unwilling or unable, do not perform this maintenance by yourself. Contact your local dealership for service. I cannot be held responsible for any damage incurred during or after this procedure.

The tools that you’ll need:


3/8” socket wrench
3” 3/8” extension
10 mm socket (or Phillips screwdriver)
12 mm socket
14 mm socket
65mm 14 flute oil filter wrench
Toyota Oil Filter Kit: P/N 04152-YZZA4, or WIX Filter 57041. Note that the WIX filter does include two o-rings like the Toyota kit, but does not include the plastic filter drain "tool". If you don't know what I mean, read on.
7 Quarts 0W20 or 5W20*

*The manual does call for 7.5 quarts, but as you read, you'll see why I used only 7.



First thing you’ll need to do is remove the skid plate, if you have one. There are 3 screws (holes identified in yellow) that have Phillips ends, but you can use the 10 mm socket since it’ll be easier and there are 5 2” long bolts (identified by red) holding the skid up. Use your 12 mm socket with extension to get these loose. It’s probably better to remove the front 3 screws and work your way back as the bolts will help hold the skid up until you are ready to remove. I couldn’t get a picture of what to do to remove the skid, but once all bolts are out, you’ll need to push the whole skid up and slide it towards the driver side. Then release and it should come down. Be careful not to whack yourself in the head with the thing…it’s a little heavy.



Once you remove the skid, you’ll need to identify where the oil filter (in yellow) and bulk oil drain bolt (in red) are located. I’ve indicated them as pictured above.




You’ll need a 14 mm socket to loosen the oil drain bolt. I use it to break it loose, and then I unscrew it with my hand. Get ready for a mess! Make sure you have your oil pan more towards the passenger wheel as the oil will shoot that way. Take a break by drinking a beer or whatever; it’ll take some time for the 7 quarts of oil to drain. Once the oil is dripping out of the hole, hand tighten the bolt back into the hole, taking care not to cross-thread the bolt. Then use the 14 mm socket to tighten. Torque: 40 N·m (408 kgf·cm, 30 ft·lbf).




Use your 3/8” extension to loosen the oil filter drain bolt. Don’t worry; very little oil will come out when you remove the bolt. Above is what it’ll look like with the bolt removed. You will have to use that plastic “tool” that comes with the Toyota Oil Filter Kit to help drain the oil out of the filter area. I’ve been changing my own oil since I’ve been driving and this was the messiest, most pain-in-the-a$$ thing I’ve ever dealt with, even over my Mazda3GT. I had to push up (and hard!) to get the oil to come out. Even after pushing up and having the oil drain for 5 minutes I still didn’t get it all. It would have been a lot easier if the sway bar wasn’t so close to the filter location.



After you attempt to drain all the oil out of the filter, wipe the area off with a rag. Make sure you don’t damage the oil filter drain gasket if you plan on using it again (I did). Then using your 65mm 14 flute oil wrench and 3/8” extension, twist the cap off. Once you turn it a couple times you’ll be able to twist it by hand…be prepared for more oil! Drop the whole assembly into your oil pan as it’ll make it easier to clean your hand and the area around the oil filter assembly. Once you have the truck portion cleaned up, remove the old oil filter that remains on the lower assembly and replace it with the new one. They should just pull off and push on. If you plan to change the gasket, do it now. Twist the lower assembly that holds the filter on taking care not to cross-thread. Then use your oil filter wrench to twist it tight. Make sure to put your oil filter drain bolt back on (make sure the gasket it on the lower assembly, then put the bolt on). Oil Filter Drain Torque: 13 N·m (127 kgf·cm, 9 ft·lbf), Oil Filter Cap Torque: 25 N·m (255 kgf·cm, 18 ft·lbf). Once everything is tight, fill your engine up with the motor oil of your choice and check your oil level on the dipstick. I used 7 quarts and it put the oil level perfectly in the middle of the empty and fill portion of the dipstick, which is where I like it. Made it easier not to use half a quart too, but the manual does call for 7.5 quarts.



Start your engine after filling and let it run for 2-3 minutes. Make sure you oil pressure is in the operating range. Check for leaks.




You’ll need to put the skid back on now. It’s not as bad as everyone says it is. Above are the holes you’ll need to align the hooks of the skid with. Make sure to have the plastic tabs of the front bumper overlapping the skid, otherwise the skid won’t go back into place. Then using the reverse process of removal, hand install the rear bolts into the skid, working your way forward taking care not to cross-thread the bolts or screws. Take care not to over tighten the screws and strip the plastic. Bolt Torque: 29 N·m (296 kgf·cm, 21 ft·lbf), Screw Torque: 5.4 N·m (55 kgf·cm, 48 in·lbf).



To reset your maintenance reminder system (even if the light hasn’t come on yet), you’ll need to turn your key to on (but don’t start!) and make sure your odometer is on TRIP A. Then key off. Press and hold the Odometer/Trip button. While holding down on the button, key the ignition to on (Don’t start the engine!) The display panel will count down from “------“ to “-“Continue pressing the button until the Trip A is displayed. After this step, you are done. Drink a couple beers for a job well done! As a notice, I don't condone drinking and driving



Since this was the first oil change, I didn't have a UOA done on it. I examined the filter and noticed very, very small shavings, but nothing that would restrict the flow.

[4REF1FAN]

This needs to be stickied!!

[00tundraracer]

great walkthrough could probably save ppl a few bucks if they have the time

[MaGuyver]

I wish I would had seen this before I went out last night and did my first oil change!!!!! Great pics and walk through.

[VonBarrett]

wait a second your telling me there are other tundra forums???









j/k

[mhadden]

^^Haha...there only used to be 2, TN and TS. I belonged to TN (and am a moderator now) before TS and since getting my Tundra, I noticed this site and TundraTruckz as well. TS has gone down hill and a lot of people are rude there, so I spend most of my time on TN along with Tundra Truckz and this site. So I figured I would help my Tundra brotheren out a little

[erkme73]

I have an 07 Rav4 (6cy limited) and 07 Tundy (5.7 limited double). I just hit the mark for my first oil change on both, and decided to do the Rav4 myself - followed by the Tundy.

However after tearing the Rav4 apart (skid plate did not have to come off), buying the special paper filter, oil, and related materials, I have come to the conclusion that I will not only NOT change the Tundy oil, but will likely never attempt this again on either vehicle.

I was unable to get the filter for the Tundy from the car parts store (too new), and the Rav4 was $10.00. Between the cost of the other materials, the mess, and the time, it is literally cheaper to have it done at Walmart! The downside, of course, is having to wait 2 hours while they keep your car hostage.

Thanks for posting the pics, mhadden. I'm glad I saw the added complexity of the skid plate removal. It just solidifies my opinion.

[mhadden]

Originally Posted by erkme73

I have an 07 Rav4 (6cy limited) and 07 Tundy (5.7 limited double). I just hit the mark for my first oil change on both, and decided to do the Rav4 myself - followed by the Tundy.

However after tearing the Rav4 apart (skid plate did not have to come off), buying the special paper filter, oil, and related materials, I have come to the conclusion that I will not only NOT change the Tundy oil, but will likely never attempt this again on either vehicle.

I was unable to get the filter for the Tundy from the car parts store (too new), and the Rav4 was $10.00. Between the cost of the other materials, the mess, and the time, it is literally cheaper to have it done at Walmart! The downside, of course, is having to wait 2 hours while they keep your car hostage.

Thanks for posting the pics, mhadden. I'm glad I saw the added complexity of the skid plate removal. It just solidifies my opinion.

Walmart? Say it ain't so I'd rather pay another $10 on top of Walmart's prices to know that it should've been done right at the dealership! Walmart techs are a bunch of idiots.

[wildbill23c]

Well its looks as though I won't be doing my own oil changes when I get my new truck. Looks like a complete pain. By the way I just had my Jeep into the lube shop and was telling the guy that I plan on buying a new Tundra in a few weeks, and he said to make the dealership throw in a few oil filters because they're not available in stores yet. So just a note to new potential buyers make your salesman thow in a few oil filters, don't pay for them you pay enough for the truck. I spent a week trying to figure out where the oil filter was in my 06 chevy cobalt just to find out I need a special tool in order to even get to the filter, so luckily I got the oil change deal at the dealership. So I let them deal with it.

[guapo]

Walmart, Never, My other truck which I had bought new in 1990 I changed the oil every 7000 miles by myself from new. Then one day I got lazy in 2002 the first and only time I took it to walmart and they cross threadded the oil drain plug and when I noticed it I took it back and said sorry, however I had to purchase a new self tapping drain plug and fix it. I told them off. Yes they offered to fix it but I told them that since they could not do a smple oil change with out screwing it up how could they fix it with out making it worse. One of my jobs when I was in the Air Force was working in the lube rack, I changed oil in everything the AF had for 1 1/2 years aprox 10 - 20 per day and never had an issue (at least with a normal passenger car or truck) Heavy equipment thats another story. Sorry walmart have a coke and a smile.

[erkme73]

Turns out there's a full-blown auto repair shop here in my work complex. About 4 doors down. Guys at work have been dropping off their vehicles for oil changes (and other repairs) for quite some time, without complaint. I called them today for a quote on an oil change. $55 for full synthetic - but they can't get the filter other than ordering it from the dealer.

As for Walmart, you'll always run the risk of finding the dullest knife in the drawer. I've had changes done for many years there, and fortunately avoided any problems. I figure I spend the majority of my $$ there anyway, might as well throw in the oil change.

[erkme73]

Originally Posted by mhadden

Walmart? Say it ain't so I'd rather pay another $10 on top of Walmart's prices to know that it should've been done right at the dealership! Walmart techs are a bunch of idiots.

I would use the dealer for everything if they were a) close enough, and b) didn't take so long to schedule/finish the work. They've gotten better at it recently, but still, I end up sitting in the waiting room for over an hour.

As to the quality of work, I've had some pretty shoddy stuff done by the 'techs' at my dealer. In fact, I had to have Hunter tire-balancing engineers call the dealer techs to walk them through how to correctly adjust the caster setting (vibration problems on an '00 Tundy). On the upside, the dealer will probably stand behind their work better than anyone in a blue apron.

[chetzki]

I did this job today on a 5.7L 2007. I would add a step for the plastic special tool to drain the filter case. It looks like it should snap in, but it's hard to provide that much force so I put it in the top of an empty wine bottle and pushed it on. It snapped in place and drained into the bottle. With the tool in place and full open, it didn't take long before it was just dripping. Could also add a hose to the tool so you don't have to hold the reservoir you drain too. I didnt have one that large laying around.

I always take my filler cap off too when I'm draining oil so air can displace the oil more easily.

Thanks for this information. Especially the torque values. I had a terrible time getting the filter cover off but should be easier now that there is oil on the threads and torqued just enough.

I will do it again - but I won't like it!

Thanks,
Chetzkie

[yammer1hammer]

good job, buddy!

yammer1hammer

[Mark-5.7]

One note: I tried using the 65/67 mm 14 flute oil filter wrench & it didn't go on far enough to get a grip to torque it! (the first inch of the wrench is 67mm, then tapers to 65mm) Does Toyota make a 65 mm only?