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Old 09-26-2008, 07:10 PM   #91 (permalink)
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I need to add a warning to this one. Don't use a 6 quart plastic catch pan for 7 1/2 quarts of oil. I caught it in time to stop the overflow, but the container was full. In the process of dumping it into my 5 gallon container, it buckled a little in the rear, basically destroyed my $150 running shoes with oil. Hell, it was time for a beer with that screw up. The truck part went great. Thanks for the info.
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Old 09-26-2008, 09:35 PM   #92 (permalink)
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I need to add a warning to this one. Don't use a 6 quart plastic catch pan for 7 1/2 quarts of oil. I caught it in time to stop the overflow, but the container was full. In the process of dumping it into my 5 gallon container, it buckled a little in the rear, basically destroyed my $150 running shoes with oil. Hell, it was time for a beer with that screw up. The truck part went great. Thanks for the info.
I know how you feel. I like to wear my $150 running shoes when I'm working on my truck too....
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Old 09-27-2008, 02:50 AM   #93 (permalink)
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Old 09-27-2008, 07:18 PM   #94 (permalink)
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I'm in the middle of an oil change and have a small rubber o ring that I don't know what to do with?

I got the Fram filter and it has 1 large rubber o ring and a small rubber o ring and this white plastic thing that I still haven't found a place for.

The stock doesn't have this little rubber o rong that I can find.
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Old 09-27-2008, 07:21 PM   #95 (permalink)
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It is entirely possible nothing is wrong.
May be that those are for other vehicles that use that filter.
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Old 09-27-2008, 08:18 PM   #96 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Song View Post
I'm in the middle of an oil change and have a small rubber o ring that I don't know what to do with?

I got the Fram filter and it has 1 large rubber o ring and a small rubber o ring and this white plastic thing that I still haven't found a place for.

The stock doesn't have this little rubber o rong that I can find.
The bigger oring goes on the black part filter casing, the smaller oring goes on the aluminum drain plug. The white drain adapter should have been used to release some of the pressure before removing the black part of the filter. Use it by pushing it in the hole after removing the aluminum drain plug.
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Old 10-04-2008, 12:09 PM   #97 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Song View Post
I'm in the middle of an oil change and have a small rubber o ring that I don't know what to do with?

I got the Fram filter and it has 1 large rubber o ring and a small rubber o ring and this white plastic thing that I still haven't found a place for.

The stock doesn't have this little rubber o rong that I can find.
Just a word of advice.... FRAM makes the absolute worst oil filters on the market. Hence why they're so cheap. FYI.....
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Old 10-05-2008, 04:47 AM   #98 (permalink)
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My First Oil Change Experience

I just changed the oil on my RCSB 5.7 at 4,000 miles. Because of info like the instructions on this forum, the job was fairly easy. It wouldn't have been so easy otherwise. First, the skid plate was a little awkward but it the complaints seem overrated. I didn't have any trouble removing or re-installing it other than the time working with the excessive number of screws and bolts. The picture showing which holes that the "hooked brackets" fit into was very helpful for the re-install. The statements that the oil drains quickly towards the passenger side tire/wheel and makes a mess are understatements. The oil covered my tire with oil!! The next time I do this, I'm going to cover the tire with a plastic bag or something.

Some have said that the oil drain plug (bolt) doesn't have a washer but there is a fiber washer that stayed stuck to the oil pan. Mine was in good shape so I re-used it but I may change it next time. I used a Purolator filter purchased from Pep Boys that came with a "screw on" oil filter drain. It worked good to easily drain the filter assembly. Next, removing the filter housing requires a good filter wrench. The KD tools wrench worked well but I had to tap it into place because it fit pretty tightly. I don't know how anyone could remove the housing with a plastic tool because I had to apply quite a bit of force to break it free (get the KD tools #3253 or equivalent). With the filter removed from the housing, I saw some small metallic particles but they were extremely hard to clean from the filter housing. The filter slips over a perforated tube that is held in place by brackets on the bottom of the housing. The metallic particles under the bracket were a living hell to get to. Another problem was that the holes in the perforated tube were not machined smooth so small pieces of the filter broke loose when I slipped on the new filter. I cleaned these as best that I could but a dealer certainly wouldn't take the time to do this. Consequently, the particles would probably cycle through your engine at least once until they burn up or are caught by the filter after they're circulated. This is a ridiculous design idea. It may be better for the environment, but it's at the expense of the protection to your truck's engine.

Anyway, the assembly went back together pretty easy and I filled the truck with Pennzoil Platinum. By the way, I don't particularly like Walmart, but the oil there is much cheaper than anywhere else that I've found (another fact that I learned in these forums). I got the Pennzoil for about $4.00 per quart vs about $6.99 everywhere else I looked (Mobil 1 was much cheaper there too but I've had good luck with Pennzoil in the past).

All in all, the job took me about 1.5 hours and will only take about 0.5 hours next time now that I know what to expect.
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Old 10-05-2008, 12:07 PM   #99 (permalink)
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Hi everyone, I asked my wife to take my truck and get the oil changed at our normal place (not the dealer). They changed the oil but not the filter. They didn't have one and they told her it wouldn't be a big deal. I didn't want to go to the dealer because I took the carbon filter off and I didn't want to glue it back on just for an oil change. Other then adding the filter my self, What do you guy's think I should do? I have an 07 crew max btw.
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Old 10-05-2008, 12:23 PM   #100 (permalink)
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Hi everyone, I asked my wife to take my truck and get the oil changed at our normal place (not the dealer). They changed the oil but not the filter. They didn't have one and they told her it wouldn't be a big deal. I didn't want to go to the dealer because I took the carbon filter off and I didn't want to glue it back on just for an oil change. Other then adding the filter my self, What do you guy's think I should do? I have an 07 crew max btw.
How much did they charge your wife for the "oil change"? Sounds to me like they were just being lazy and didn't want to do it.
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Old 10-05-2008, 03:57 PM   #101 (permalink)
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I don't remember the cost, They claimed to give her 6 dollars off.

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Old 10-09-2008, 12:00 PM   #102 (permalink)
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Its probably ok to not change the filter every time if you are going 5000 miles or less between changes. This new filter design has a bigger element than the tiny spin on filter that Toyota used in the past. Honda only requires it every other oil change. Toyota technically requires it. Did the invoice for the oil change specify that the filter was not changed?
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Old 10-09-2008, 05:39 PM   #103 (permalink)
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as cheep as these filters are, youd be dumb not to change it every time.........
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Old 10-10-2008, 04:26 PM   #104 (permalink)
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as cheep as these filters are, youd be dumb not to change it every time.........
No kidding! I can't believe how cheap they are. Especially from the delaership.
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Old 10-16-2008, 03:37 PM   #105 (permalink)
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oil draining from a 12 inch lift makes it SUPER MESSY.... i had splash radius of like 5 feet around the oil catch!... then that plastic thing that drains the filter popped out cause i put an o ring on it and the existing one was there also ..and that made even more mess... this is the worst oil change EVER!
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