DIY: 5.7L Oil Change

[Skyhammer]

Originally Posted by OLDESTGUY

I have one with 15 flutes and 65mm. Any problem anticipated? Can a guy get a large channel lock on as a possibility? How about those that have an adjustable set of jaws, the more you tighten, the tighter they get? Can that cover be damaged by this?

Of course once I try it, I'll find out.

I'm also wondering about making a tool for forcing that plastic thing in, as with a 3/4" pipe fitted with a lug on the side for prying against the stabilizing bar, and also with a hose on the lower end to control the oil to a pan on the floor. Comments?

While you can use a set of channel locks, you will increase the chances of damage. Remember, the filter canister, etc. is plastic and aluminum.
Of greater importance, is that when you tighten the canister and the drain plug, you have no idea how much torque you are putting on the filter drain plug and canister.
The filter drain plug only takes 9lbs and the canister is 18lbs. Over torquing on the plastic and aluminum can cause you problems. A lot of people have said that they have tightened the drain plug so much that the canister has turned when trying to remove the filter drain plug. I skip the drain the filter part, as I just find it easier.
Getting a torque wrench is a good investment as you will find many other uses for it as there are a lot of aluminum parts on our trucks. Front diff and transfer case are just two examples.

[seatec]

FYI: these are money for you DIY'ers. :: QwikValve::FUMOTO OIL DRAIN VALVE::The best way to change your motor oil without tools or mess! no need for torquing. put on once and your good to go. A for only getting 7 qt in. Did anybody warm up their engine before draining the oil? Might get more out of the engine thata way. THats how i do my bikes so im sure not to much old oil remains sticking to the inside of the housing.

[Buddah]

Originally Posted by jarheadfor4

I finally did my own oil change today. It wasn't too difficult. I only had problems with the oil filter housing. It was way too tight.

I put 0w-20 Mobil in the truck. The dealer had been putting in 5-30 bulk when they changed it. I am sick of the crap you have to put up with when you use a dealer for service. The oil change procedure in this truck doesn't allow me the opportunity to take it just anywhere. I guess I am back to being a shade tree mechanic.

Performed my first oil change today at 1200 miles. I couldn't agree more with the filtter housing being torqued too tight from the factory. What a joke!!! I used a big pair of channell locks to get it off but the sway bar is in the way to get full turns. I will get the 65mm. wrench next time. I attached a long tube to the plastic drain and it worked well. Just make sure it's pushed tightly in place or oil will run down your arm. Overall, not too tough. I will use a small bucket next time to catch the oil from the drain plug so it doesn't splatter all over when using a conventional drain pan. Live and learn

[Smed]

I had the same problem getting the housing off. I had a filter wrench of the type needed that I bought like 10 years ago and never used. It of course turned out to be to big.....

I haven't seen anyone else mention the little metal tab at the base of the filter housing. Anyone have any intel why it is there other than to make me wonder WTF it is for? Is it new on the 08s

Originally Posted by Buddah

Performed my first oil change today at 1200 miles. I couldn't agree more with the filtter housing being torqued too tight from the factory. What a joke!!! I used a big pair of channell locks to get it off but the sway bar is in the way to get full turns. I will get the 65mm. wrench next time. I attached a long tube to the plastic drain and it worked well. Just make sure it's pushed tightly in place or oil will run down your arm. Overall, not too tough. I will use a small bucket next time to catch the oil from the drain plug so it doesn't splatter all over when using a conventional drain pan. Live and learn

[the_dude]

just curious if anyone has foudn that 7 qts doesn't fill it to the full mark on the stick.

i did my first change last night and after dumping in 7 qts, i started it let it run for a minute then shut it off and the level was barely touching the stick. looks liek it would take another 1.5 qts. i put in another half getting it to the bottom mark ont he stick but i'm affraid to put in another qt. i can see 7.5 when they say 7....but 8.5 seems like a lot.

thanks.

[Nice Rumble]

The dipstick can be hard read with clean oil as it is hard to see and can streak and not give you a true reading. I usually put in the recommended amount and then it sit for awhile to let it settle to get a more accurate reading. Best to check it the following morning.

[Familymanof5]

I changed mine last night at 10100 miles. I changed it at operating temp. I put 7 qts in it and it still showed just a tad low. I put another 1/2 qt in and right between the notches on the stick. DON'T USE CHANNEL LOCKS. Go get the corect tool and do it right that way when it has 130000 miles on it it still looks nice and new.


FM5

[the_dude]

Originally Posted by Nice Rumble

The dipstick can be hard read with clean oil as it is hard to see and can streak and not give you a true reading. I usually put in the recommended amount and then it sit for awhile to let it settle to get a more accurate reading. Best to check it the following morning.

i checked it the next morning after driving a couple/few miles....still reads halfway between the 2 sets of "dots". that's after putting in 8 qts. i'm wondering if the "jug" only had 4 qts instead of 5???? i guess i'll wait to see what happens teh next change.

[algolfer69]

Just changed my oil myself for the first time on this Tundra. That was the messiest oil job I have ever done. Also switched to Castrol Syntec.

[ramoine]

Originally Posted by algolfer69

Just changed my oil myself for the first time on this Tundra. That was the messiest oil job I have ever done. Also switched to Castrol Syntec.

Yes it's really messy , lol . I just have the dealer do mine now .

[algolfer69]

Originally Posted by ramoine

Yes it's really messy , lol . I just have the dealer do mine now .

I just switched to synthetic. Are you using synthetic Ramoine? If so, how much does the dealer charge you?

[ramoine]

I have not made the switch yet , but they charge me $23.00 plus tax including filter .

[algolfer69]

Yeah, I was paying 28 to 32.

[ramoine]

I'm not sure how much more for the synthetic , but I'll ask next month when I go to the dealer .

[algolfer69]

Originally Posted by ramoine

I'm not sure how much more for the synthetic , but I'll ask next month when I go to the dealer .

I will be asking them next week when I take the truck in for the bilstein.