Hi all, Did my first DIY oil change yesterday. After draining the oil, and pulling the filter canister plug, I discovered my oil filter canister wrench is worthless (slips off). Soooo, I filled the truck with new oil, but left the old filter in place.
I have a K and D filter wrench on the way.
Question is- If I drain the filter canister now (engine is full of oil), how much will come out? My plan would be to capture the oil in a clean container, replace the filter, then put the oil (which has 40 ft. of driving mileage) back in.
Lots of people used to do that, they would replace the filter leave the oil in the engine and simply add a quart of new oil. But I'm pretty sure that would void the warranties these days.
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The Following User Says Thank You to prime81 For This Useful Post:
Wait and replace it with the metal filter housing, the plastic one is junk. It's a toyota part for a venza I believe....a search on here should be easy to find it.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Big Shasta For This Useful Post:
I struggled to get my canister off during my first oil change. Then I noticed a little locking tab that kept the canister from turning. I put a small flat-tipped screwdriver on the tab as I turned the filter wrench and it came right off. Look closely. Mine is a 2012.
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Thanks all. I ordered the K and D tool on Monday, but the one shown at that TS site would have been a better choice. Oh well.
And regarding the locking tab- Where is it exactly? Weird that none of the YouTube videos on changing Tundra oil have mentioned that.
mine is an '07.
Thanks,
Don
I don't know if they had the tab on the 2007's. I had one on the 2012 and it was very visible. It pops right off with a screwdriver and I didn't bother to put it back on.
The Following User Says Thank You to SteveAustin For This Useful Post:
Well, it's done. What a mess, but all cleaned up. I do think there is/was a locking tab, but it looks like the dealer (last to change the oil) bent it out of the way.
The K D oil filter wrench worked great, but boy it took some torque to loosen that thing. And then about 1/3 qt. of oil ran down my arms, even after using the drain thingy.
Well, it's done. What a mess, but all cleaned up. I do think there is/was a locking tab, but it looks like the dealer (last to change the oil) bent it out of the way.
The K D oil filter wrench worked great, but boy it took some torque to loosen that thing. And then about 1/3 qt. of oil ran down my arms, even after using the drain thingy.
Next time, Jiffy lube....
Thanks for the help guys!
Don
No don't take it there! if it was that much trouble for you, do you think they'll go the extra mile to make sure it's done right?
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The Following User Says Thank You to blakbull For This Useful Post:
Well, it's done. What a mess, but all cleaned up. I do think there is/was a locking tab, but it looks like the dealer (last to change the oil) bent it out of the way.
The K D oil filter wrench worked great, but boy it took some torque to loosen that thing. And then about 1/3 qt. of oil ran down my arms, even after using the drain thingy.
Next time, Jiffy lube....
Thanks for the help guys!
Don
If you can do it once, it gets easier. The whole ordeal is more cumbersome and tedious than it needs to be but you'll get faster and more efficient at it.
You could've used a cheater bar to break it loose. The first time I took off the filter housing I thought it was seized up from the factory. The bar and custom wrench definitely made it easier to remove.
There's a neat trick to the oil drain valve. Get a regular sized wine bottle and use the drain adapter with it. Put the drain adapter on the wine bottle and push it up into the valve. The wine bottle will give you the extra leverage to easily pop open the valve. At this point, you can let it drain into the wine bottle or let it drain into your pan. Just make sure to let it drain for a bit, so enough oil comes out of the filter housing. If you get enough of the oil out, it won't run all over your arm and make a mess.
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