I don't understand how you had 1/3 quart of oil drain out after you used the nipple to drain the oil out of the housing? I've never had any extra oil come out after draining the housing
Also, my '07 is 2wd and I have a skidplate...all TRD models come with one
Also, please don't ruin your truck by taking it to jiffy lube that will get you banned around here
Lessons learned the hard way are why I do it myself now! Used to take it to the quick lube until I got wise to crap they were pulling...
Take a look at Amsoil or some of the other synthetics. If you don't like changing your oil so frequently, there are some options on extended filters/oils. I change mine once a year and am done.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Jerome14 For This Useful Post:
I agree with what you said Jerome, except for the "extended filter" part. I did quite a bit of research trying to decide which filter to use, and all my reading led me to the $5 OEM filters. I use good synthetic oils (currently Amsoil, and going to German Castrol next), so I can extend my oil change intervals, while getting better protection. I'm sure the oil filter will last just as long as the oil, but I just change my oil filter halfway through anyway. It costs me $5 for the filter, and a few bucks for the oil that I'm adding back in. Takes 20 minutes to replace the filter, and add some oil back in. I am changing my oil filter at 5k miles, and changing the oil at 10k miles.
about a 6" piece of hose that fits over the nipple of the drain tool makes the job MUCH easier and cleaner.
I feel spoiled, mine being 2WD, i don't have a skidplate to deal with.
I had a 2008 grade level 2wd NON TRD and now have a 2012 SR5 2wd non trd. They both have the same skidplate that must be removed to get to the filter. Sounds like someone has removed yours to simplify things. It probably only adds a couple minutes, it's not that big of a deal to remove.
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Thanks again all. I was only kidding (due to high disgust level) about Jiffy lube.
My 2wd TRD has the skid plate- a small drag to get on and off- but I'm glad it's there.
I did use a rubber hose, right into a sterile can. I left it there about 15 minutes, but when I removed the bannister, there was still about 1/3 qt running down my arms.
And yes, I always use synthetic oil- this truck is really only a tow vehicle for the airstream, so things can get hot.
Oh well, I've recovered now and won't have to face this again for awhile- and I'll know more about how to do it.
Also, I don't get the mid-oil change filter replacement. Unless your engine is shedding metal, or you live in a dust bowl, it's hard to imagine the filter would get clogged half way thru an oil change. Standard procedure with the old BMW motorcycles I play with is to change the filter every OTHER oil change.
Don
Last edited by DJW; 11-14-2012 at 05:32 PM.
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Just as an update I followed the above link and ran into a link that he sells the item on ebay. The tool also comes with the metal filter housing. Link below:
__________________ 2012 Tundra Crewmax Platinum TRD 4x4 Magnetic Gray on Steel Gray 5100s on all four corners - Bakflip F1 - Bakbox - K&N Drop In - OEM Power Fold Tow Mirrors - Michelin LTX AT2's LT285/55/20
the tool I'm linking below looks to be a far better option IMHO and is the one I've been using for the last several years on 2 vehicles - the biggest concern I have about the tool in the previous post is stripping/rounding out the square hole when trying to loosen a filter cap that the dealer overtorqued (happened to me twice, thanks ToyotaCare!)... a single cast piece will handle a lot more punishment
Just as an update I followed the above link and ran into a link that he sells the item on ebay. The tool also comes with the metal filter housing. Link below:
Tundra noob here. Just attempted my first oil change and what a joke this whole filter concept is. Mine is an 07 and yep the plastic hex cap is rounded down. Will have to get the tool as well. When I went to walmart to get the filter I got a paper filter cylinder. Did not see a screw-in metal filter that I was expecting (like for every other vehicle in this world). This is my first truck so maybe it's a truck thing? Now, this paper filter is the only oil filter, right?
Also, since we have to take the whole cap off, why is there a smaller metal cap with a square hole in the middle? Is this a drain? When I took this off, I barely got anything out of it (literally like 2 drops). Is anyone replacing the o-ring for this too?
I cant believe I have to ask these noob questions about a filter. In the 15 years I've worked on cars, I've done everything to a vehicle from a heater core to transaxle to clutch to an entire engine transplant and I'm having to ask questions about a silly oil filter. LOL.
Thanks for the info on the tool, that has helped tremendously. I'm not as crazy as I thought I was getting.
Tundra noob here. Just attempted my first oil change and what a joke this whole filter concept is. Mine is an 07 and yep the plastic hex cap is rounded down. Will have to get the tool as well. When I went to walmart to get the filter I got a paper filter cylinder. Did not see a screw-in metal filter that I was expecting (like for every other vehicle in this world). This is my first truck so maybe it's a truck thing? Now, this paper filter is the only oil filter, right?
Also, since we have to take the whole cap off, why is there a smaller metal cap with a square hole in the middle? Is this a drain? When I took this off, I barely got anything out of it (literally like 2 drops). Is anyone replacing the o-ring for this too?
I cant believe I have to ask these noob questions about a filter. In the 15 years I've worked on cars, I've done everything to a vehicle from a heater core to transaxle to clutch to an entire engine transplant and I'm having to ask questions about a silly oil filter. LOL.
Thanks for the info on the tool, that has helped tremendously. I'm not as crazy as I thought I was getting.
Yes, it is a paper filter. It should come with two o-ring rubber gaskets and a white plastic drain tool as well.
Yes, removing the metal cap itself does very little. It has a valve inside that has to pushed in order for the oil to flow out of the filter cap. This is what the plastic drain tool is for. Also, one of the gaskets that came with the filter is used for this o-ring.
There is a DIY oil change thread here and over at TS that might help explain things better. One trick for the plastic drain valve is to use a wine bottle to give you some extra leverage.
Yes, the small cover with the square is to keep oil from leaking out of the drain hole. The o ring should be replaced. The oil filter should have come with a plastic drain tool. You jam that up in the hole, and the canister is drained of all the oil. Then you take the big cap off and replace the paper oil filter. I ordered 10 oem filters off ebay for $45, and it came with the small and large o rings, and plastic drain tool.
I actually prefer the canisters over spin ons, less messy imo. Maybe I'm doing it all wrong though, because everyone complains about how messy it is, but I have not made 1 mess ever, since I started changing the oil in my tundra
I believe there is a DIY write-up on the oil change. Read it, and you'll get it.
Edit- lol, steveaustin beat me to it.
Last edited by Bad Dad's Tundra; 11-17-2012 at 03:57 PM.
The Following User Says Thank You to Bad Dad's Tundra For This Useful Post:
Thanks guys. I was wondering what the person was saying about the wine bottle and all that jazz, now I understand. I never even THOUGHT there'd need to be a write up on oil changes, so sorry I never checked there. having read it, I can see why. lol. crazy. I'll have an opinion on paper vs. screw on very soon. lol now it's work time.
I was nervous about doing my own oil change after reading so many bitch sessions about it. After I completed my first one, I was like, WTF's the big deal? Lol.
The Following User Says Thank You to Bad Dad's Tundra For This Useful Post:
I hear ya. When you're expecting a plug and screw on filter then see you got an underbody cover, o rings, special tool inventions and a plastic cap with locking mechanism and what I'm anticipating is going to be an armful of oil I can see why. Believe me I'd rather do this than say a heater core. I used to have a couple Mr2s and the clutch slave cylinder was just awful. Toyota has certainly done worse in designs LOL
The Following User Says Thank You to kcarel For This Useful Post:
thanks for the heads up on the skidplate. mine is a non TRD, but i will look to see of there is any signs of one formerly being on there, next time i am under it of course.
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