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#1 (permalink) Old 10-17-2012, 05:14 PM
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Propeller Shaft re-Torque 4x4

PLEASE NOTE: This information is for a 2007-2012 Toyota Tundra, second generation, 4x4, and specifically for the model year 2012. I do not know if the 4x2's need to have their propeller shaft re-torqued.


I noticed some threads that listed Propeller shaft torque, but they truncated the part that told WHICH vehicle EXACTLY that they fit. So I did a two day subscription to Toyota Information Systems, printed out the pages, and scanned them in to a PDF.

The sort answer is that Toyota refers to the (rear) propeller shaft as the "propeller shaft" with drive shaft torque of 70NM or about 52ft lbs.

Toyota refers to the "front propeller shaft" as the "front propeller shaft" with a torque of 80NM or about 59 ft lbs.

Considering that the maintenance guide just says "re-torque the propeller shaft," I think that it might only be necessary to re-torque the "Propeller shaft" (rear propeller shaft) with no need to re-torque the "front propeller shaft." Someone please correct me if this is wrong.

Some people think all you need to do is "check" the torque. You cannot just "check" the torque without first taking at least some of the torque off of the fastener with a ratchet or breaker bar. If you use a torque wrench to "check the torque," without first releasing at some of the torque it will actually increase the torque beyond spec. Torque specs are only valid on a moving fastener.

My guess for why Toyota requires a propeller shaft re-torque when towing is the loading and unloading of the truck put stress on the drive train such that it affects the bolts or perhaps the forces from turning when pulling a trailer put extra strain on the rear propeller shaft bolts. Unfortunately a shop or dealership is NOT going to do any of this work, not normally, and anything involving torque to a shop normally means an impact tool of some sort.

AFTER you have re-torqued the "propeller shaft" and "front propeller shaft" you might as well grease the grease fittings, there should be one per joint, front and rear. You have to hold the grease gun on them pretty hard, and try not to put too much, a squirts or a few squirts.

TOOLS REQUIRED:

You are going to need a decent 3/8 torque wrench, something with a flex head, a long flex head 3/8 ratchet, 17mm? socket for the rear, 14mm socket for the front, a wobble extension, and enough patience to put the sockets on the fasteners carefully in a variety of positions as to not to strip the bolt. Release the torque on each bolt ONE at a time, and release and re-torque in a diagonal pattern. A headlamp helps illuminate things and I had the truck on a jack-stands, just enough to lift the suspension without really lifting the tires off the ground. Don't forget to use a grease gun with a LONG flexible nozzle or you will NOT be able to reach the grease Zerks!

Wobble extension or extensions:

FXWP1, Extension, Wobble Plus, Friction Ball, 1 1/2"

I know these are rather expensive, but a torque wrench like this is worth EVERY penny:

TECH2FR100, Torque Wrench, Electronic, TECHWRENCH®, Flex Ratchet, 5 to 100 ft. lbs., 3/8" drive

This torque wrench allows for switching between NM, Ft lbs, and others, and it vibrates, beeps, and shows the the reached torque when the wrench stops. It is possible that CDI, who makes or previously made these wrenches for Snap-on will have a similar model:

CDI Torque Products, America's Largest Manufacturer of Torque Equipment

Being a somewhat critical torque measurement, I would say not to bother trying to re-torque the propeller shaft with any torque wrench that is under $200 unless you have had it calibrated or unless you REALLY trust that wrench. You will have to have a flex head however, I do not think you can get it done without a flex head, and the smaller head on the Snap-on wrench will help out TREMENDOUSLY. Other alternative wrenches would include, Mac, Proto, Armstrong, etc.

Here is a company that is calibration company recommended by several manufactures, such as Armstrong, Proto, etc:

ANGLE REPAIR.COM...HOME PAGE. Torque wrench repair, calibration, certification.


Hope this information helps.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Toyota_Tundra_2012-4x4_Propeller_Shaft_(rear)_torque_Specs.pdf (212.6 KB, 89 views)
File Type: pdf Toyota_Tundra_2012_4x4_Front_Propeller_Shaft_Torqe&Installation.pdf (171.5 KB, 56 views)

Last edited by Cingular; 10-17-2012 at 05:44 PM.
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#2 (permalink) Old 10-17-2012, 05:30 PM
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The grease zerks have paint over them. You have to scratch the paint off in order to get the grease into the joint the first time. There's also a weep hole so you can replace all the grease if needed.


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#3 (permalink) Old 10-17-2012, 08:55 PM
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Garage
What type of grease did you use?
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#4 (permalink) Old 10-17-2012, 09:25 PM
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Grease for Propeller Shaft

I never found a definitive recommendation for the grease. The propeller shaft is a U-Joint of sorts, so I used the grease I had researched for other U-Joints, Dow Corning Molykote G-4700. Any grease with water resistant outdoor properties should be fine. I searched Toyota Information Systems, and the only reference to grease is the one found on this forum previously deailing an '00 Tundra 4WD, and it says a multipurpose Di-sulfide Lithium grease.

MOLYKOTE® G-4700 EXTREME PRESSURE SYNTHETIC GREASE

Other cheaper alternates would be Mobil XHP222 (no moly) and XHP222 Special which has Moly.

You can get the Mobil grease & the Dow Molykote grease at McMaster-Carr.

The grease I would really like to try is from a company called Lubrication Engineers. They are known to have EXCELLENT products but they only cater to large quantity/businesses. However, there is one company online that sells at least one flavor of their grease in single tubes:

Mag-Hytec

It is $10.75 a tube but I DEFIANTLY want to try this grease. If I did not already have the truck up for an oil change I would have waited and ordered this grease first.
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File Type: pdf PROPELLER_SHAFT_JOINT_GREASE_T-DL99-001.pdf (68.8 KB, 37 views)
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#5 (permalink) Old 10-17-2012, 09:35 PM
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I checked my propeller shaft bolts about 10K miles ago using my torque wrench and a crow-foot extension. I reduced the torque by the required amount due to the extension, which I think was around 49 ft-lbs. None of the bolts budged even a hair. As for the drive shaft, I use Mobile 1 grease every oil change.

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#6 (permalink) Old 10-17-2012, 09:42 PM
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1stYoda made a good point, torque does change with extensions but I never knew exactly how to calculate that. I always try to use a deep socket as an "extension" or use the shortest extension possible.

On a new 2012 Tundra with about 1700 miles the propeller shaft bolts seemed to be torqued properly. I thought they might be tight from being installed with a factory impact wrench but that was simply not the case. The 20" allow wheels is where, as I could tell put on by a factory impact wrench and I re-torqued them on delivery to 97 ft lbs.
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#7 (permalink) Old 10-18-2012, 12:05 AM
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I use high pressure high temp NLGI 2 Lithium complex. No clue if it's the right grease.

I have been told that you should NOT use moly grease in a u-joint. Moly is an extreme pressure lube that is used in a low speed high pressure application. If used in a u-joint the bearings can develop flat spots because they will not spin.


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#8 (permalink) Old 10-18-2012, 12:49 PM
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Thanks for the reply Toxarch, I have not heard that moly cannot be used on u-joints, but the only research I have done involves a Kohler CH20 engine with a PTO that connects to a U-joint and in that case, moly is mentioned as an option.

The post #4 with the Toyota TSB .pdf attachment for propeller shaft u-joint grease does state to apply a molybdenum disulfide lithium base chassis grease, NLGI No. 2, to the No. 4, 5 & 6 grease fittings (double cardan joint) And that is a Toyota service bulletin for a 2000 Tundra 4WD. My understanding is that the greases that contain moly only contain a small amount, like the pepper in your eggs. A tech at Exxon Mobil for XHP222 Special said it only had a small very small amount of molybdenum. Dow Corning is silent about the amount of moly in their Molykote G-4700, but they their tech did say it was ok to use in the U-joints used on the PTO of that Kohler CH20 engine.
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#9 (permalink) Old 10-18-2012, 01:59 PM
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If Toyota says to put it, then I guess it's OK.

My understanding is that Moly grease is for high pressure metal sliding against metal situations. For example on splines, pinion gears, driveshaft slip yoke, etc. In anything with bearings where there are rollers or balls under load, a regular fiber or lithium grease is used.

I think it has something to do with the "flow" properties of Moly grease and that it doesn't flow to all surfaces in a moving part like bearings where air might mix with the grease. Or something like that. I'm not an engineer so I leave it to them to figure that stuff out.


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