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post #31 of 375 (permalink) Old 07-13-2012, 01:07 PM
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I'd say definitely try GC...if your Amsoil is 3.0 after 5K miles, and my GC is 3.7 after 10K miles, I'd say the choice is easy now! I'm interested to see your GC results, since mine are on an old '07 100K engine that does a lot of short trips and idling...

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post #32 of 375 (permalink) Old 07-13-2012, 01:35 PM
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A couple questions for you BDT...

How did you drain your oil between changes? The reason I ask is because you might be seeing some cross-contamination from the previous oil used and the new stuff. I've read about some people hooking up a shop-vac to suction out as much used oil as possible. Have you ever tried doing this?

Second, does Toyota recommend the same weight oil (5W-20) in our engines that have a supercharger added? I'm wondering if the heavier GC (0W-30) might perform better with 500+ ponies under the hood. Not sure if there is any correlation between Hp and oil weight but it's something worth considering...

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post #33 of 375 (permalink) Old 07-13-2012, 02:25 PM
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What oil did you use before the M1 at 34K? Was it also M1?
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post #34 of 375 (permalink) Old 07-13-2012, 03:43 PM
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I have M1 in now and I've got about 8K on this fill. I'm gonna change it out next week and send a sample in to see what the report says. I'm also changing the transmission fluid, maybe I'll send that in to.
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post #35 of 375 (permalink) Old 07-13-2012, 07:04 PM
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For what it's worth...when I switched from M1 to GC I did nothing special...just drained, changed filter, and refilled with GC. The lab results I posted were from this first GC fill...the only thing I did to get my sample was take the drain plug out, let the used oil flow for a few seconds, and then put my sample bottle under the stream of oil exiting my pan.

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post #36 of 375 (permalink) Old 07-14-2012, 07:42 AM
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I think you should run it out to 8k and test it.
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post #37 of 375 (permalink) Old 07-19-2012, 09:38 AM
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I am running Amsoil OE and will pull it at 5k and send a sample in. Next, I am not sure what to run. Was thinking about trying either Amsoil XL, SS or maybe M1. I did not consider running GC because it is 30 grade oil. I have an unmodded motor. Please help me understand if there are any negative consequences to running the 30 grade vs the Toyota specified 20 grade oil?


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post #38 of 375 (permalink) Old 07-19-2012, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Daveownsjoo View Post
I am running Amsoil OE and will pull it at 5k and send a sample in. Next, I am not sure what to run. Was thinking about trying either Amsoil XL, SS or maybe M1. I did not consider running GC because it is 30 grade oil. I have an unmodded motor. Please help me understand if there are any negative consequences to running the 30 grade vs the Toyota specified 20 grade oil?
The GC 0W30 is acceptable for the Tundra. The manual states "a heavier viscosity can be used in high temperatures, high speeds, towing, severe applications" or something to that effect. Toyota wants us to use 0W or 5W "winter grade" to keep the oil thin at initial start-up, but stopped at 20 on the other side to increase fuel economy to assist with CAFE. But certainly 30 is no problem for your engine or warranty, as it clearly states by Toyota that it is acceptable.

On another note, if you have engine noise (mine sounded like a diesel sometimes with M1), the 30 really made my engine less noisy. My motor is also unmodded.

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post #39 of 375 (permalink) Old 07-19-2012, 01:26 PM
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So if i live in a fairly cold climate (North Dakota) would it be wise not to run GC? or is it such a small difference that it wouldnt really matter?
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post #40 of 375 (permalink) Old 07-19-2012, 01:38 PM
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Starting viscosities should be the same so it wouldn't matter.


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post #41 of 375 (permalink) Old 07-19-2012, 01:52 PM
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okay thats what i figured. Thanks!
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post #42 of 375 (permalink) Old 07-19-2012, 04:17 PM
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Yes, no matter where you live (in the contiguous US), you should run 0W as first choice, and 20 or 30 on the flip side. Some like 5W for some reason, but thinner at start-up is better, even if it's 100 degrees outside. On the high side, that viscosity (20 or 30) is only for operating temperatures, so colder outside/ambient temperature has no effect on your oil choice.

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post #43 of 375 (permalink) Old 07-22-2012, 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by jaymz11 View Post
Since I get free oil changes from the dealer for two years how do I convince them to use German Castrol 5w-20???
fosterelli is right. the dealer won't run 0-30 for you. Castrol Syntec Edge w/ SPT (or whatever) is only made in Germany if it's 0w30. I checked all the other viscosities and they are all made in the U.S.. GC is like UFO's. We know they're out there but coming by one ain't easy. Actually, it's probably pretty easy if you use the resources on this thread.

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post #44 of 375 (permalink) Old 07-22-2012, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by fosterelli View Post
The GC 0W30 is acceptable for the Tundra. The manual states "a heavier viscosity can be used in high temperatures, high speeds, towing, severe applications" or something to that effect. Toyota wants us to use 0W or 5W "winter grade" to keep the oil thin at initial start-up, but stopped at 20 on the other side to increase fuel economy to assist with CAFE. But certainly 30 is no problem for your engine or warranty, as it clearly states by Toyota that it is acceptable.

On another note, if you have engine noise (mine sounded like a diesel sometimes with M1), the 30 really made my engine less noisy. My motor is also unmodded.
That's probably one of the only things that allowed the 5.7 TT a ULEV. ULEV my ass. It certainly ain't Ultra Low Emissions from my wallet when it comes time to fill 'er up.

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post #45 of 375 (permalink) Old 07-31-2012, 10:04 AM
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How long does it take to get your OA done once they receive it normally at Blackstone? I sent one in last week on wife's car. Post office said it should get there Thursday. Still haven't got an email yet.
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