A lot of people bitch about the cartridge and I just don't get it. You can drain the oil out, then replace the filter, sans mess. The traditional twist on filters always make a mess for me...I twist them off, and sure as shit, spill some on myself. I love the cartridge system (first time dealing with it was on my tundra)
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A lot of people bitch about the cartridge and I just don't get it. You can drain the oil out, then replace the filter, sans mess. The traditional twist on filters always make a mess for me...I twist them off, and sure as shit, spill some on myself. I love the cartridge system (first time dealing with it was on my tundra)
And I have heard that the cartridge style filters better too.
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Super White 2011 Tundra DC
5.7L 4x4 6.5' Bed
255/70/18 Michelins
4.30, Tow & Cold Pkg
Rhino Lining, SS Step Bars, Debadged
Dealer Paint Protection & Rubber Floor
subscribing for GC results
my service contract is up so under the truck i go
i will be getting the valve with nipple F-103N Valve (w/Nipple)
and sticking with the stock filter
now, i have not done a cartridge filter like the one on the TT
can you guys point me in the right direction for any special tools i may need?
i have 2K miles before my oil change, so i have a little time
i found the GC oil at a decent price on amazon
On the back of the bottle it will say "Made in Germany". That price is too much. Watch the auto zone sales. Every once in a while they will go on sale for 5 quarts for $30 and a free filter. They don't offer any toyota filters for free, so I pick out a filter that fits my wifes car.
I agree, stick with oem filters. I bought 10 oem filters off ebay for $45, which came with both orings, and the plastic drain tools. I think you have to pay extra for the orings normally, not sure. But for $4.50 per filter, its a deal. I ran a $20 Mobil 1 filter and didn't get any better results than I did with an oem filter.
It will be a while before I post a uoa on the GC, since I barely put 8k miles per year on my truck. I might do a uoa at 5k miles for s&g's, otherwise I might wait til 7500 miles.
Good job on the fumoto valve. Makes for an easier and less messy oil drain. Hook a tube up to it, open the valve, and walk away for a little while. Also makes for easy oil samples if you choose to get into uoa's.
i will keep an eye on the specials
i was leaning towards the amsoil as i use it on my bikes.
but am very curious as to how the GC performs against the amsoil.
am going to check on the filters on ebay. who knows i might get lucky too.
if no one has a result by the time i do my oil change i will get my oil tested.
i didn't get the wine bottle bit. would you be so kind as to elaborate on that?
Last time I did an oil change, I was going to video the bottle procedure, but my wife was tied up (not literally). I figured wth, it's a pretty easy concept to grasp, once you can visualize it. Hope the above thread w/ pics helps.
Thanks. This was the first oil change I did where I used the wine bottle trick (put the plastic drain tool in the top of wine bottle and jam it up into the housing.) Absolutely no mess or drip at all. I was getting a little nervous when the wine bottle filled to about 3/4 of the way, but the oil stopped. Also attached a drain tube to the end of my fumoto valve and put the other end in my drain pan. Again, 100% mess free . Couldn't have done a better job myself
I put the Fumoto w/ tube on my new Ford during the first oil change...can't wait to use it for the first time in a few weeks! I have to say...why the hell did I never put one on all of my other rigs? Holy crap, it's going to be nice!
BTW, a guy on the Ford forum said he doesn't believe in Fumoto valves because "I'm afraid someone will tamper with it"...LOL. I replied, there's plenty of other shit under your truck if they want to mess with you. Shoot, I'd just crawl under there with a pair of dikes and start cutting every wire I could find!
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A lot of people bitch about the cartridge and I just don't get it. You can drain the oil out, then replace the filter, sans mess. The traditional twist on filters always make a mess for me...I twist them off, and sure as shit, spill some on myself. I love the cartridge system (first time dealing with it was on my tundra)
First time I dealt with the cartridge was on my 65 impala (still have it) I have no prob with. In my eyes if anybody is goin to change oil then it could get messy. I don't c y people r having issues with doin oil change either. What is the best way to a oil sample (container)?
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What kind of oil? TBN looks low for 9k miles. Mobil 1 and Amsoil seem to have a higher TBN (around 3 or so if memory serves) on similar miles.
Factory oil. Got it changed at the dealership with whatever they use. They have mobil1 signage there, but it's probably Toyota bulk synthetic. After my Toyota care runs out, I'm using amsoil.
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Black 2012 DC SR5 5.7 - Black Tundra Club Member #137
Westin Platinum Black Oval Nerf Bars, AVS In-Channel Rain Guards, Switched Backup Cam Mod, No DRL Mod,
Anytime Fogs Mod, LED Bed lighting, LED Underbody lighting, All interior/exterior LEDs, LEDGLow tailgate bar,
Black plastidip badges/grill/bumpers/wheels/overhead console, 6000k HID lows, 8000k HID fogs
Tailgate remote lock/unlock/open
TODO: BLHM/Halos, Dash LED color change
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Factory oil. Got it changed at the dealership with whatever they use. They have mobil1 signage there, but it's probably Toyota bulk synthetic. After my Toyota care runs out, I'm using amsoil.
One helpful bit I learned: the toyota care covers 5 or 6 (cant remember which) in the 1st two years. You get to choose the intervals. They don't tell you that outright. So you could use up your 5 or 6 changes every 3k miles since the synthetic bulk they use at the dealer is pretty much just group 3 stock with a decent add pack on it. I pay them 30 bucks extra to use Mobil 1 and I'm having them do it according to time, not mileage. I just took the free changes they offer and spaced them out evenly over the two years. It's a waste of good oil, but the oil is cheaper ($30- for 8 qts of M1 is fine by me) and the labor is free. Plus they do all the other maint. stuff at each visit as well. If you go by mileage, you probably wont use up you 5 visits in just 2 years.
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Super White 2011 Tundra DC
5.7L 4x4 6.5' Bed
255/70/18 Michelins
4.30, Tow & Cold Pkg
Rhino Lining, SS Step Bars, Debadged
Dealer Paint Protection & Rubber Floor
One helpful bit I learned: the toyota care covers 5 or 6 (cant remember which) in the 1st two years. You get to choose the intervals. They don't tell you that outright. So you could use up your 5 or 6 changes every 3k miles since the synthetic bulk they use at the dealer is pretty much just group 3 stock with a decent add pack on it. I pay them 30 bucks extra to use Mobil 1 and I'm having them do it according to time, not mileage. I just took the free changes they offer and spaced them out evenly over the two years. It's a waste of good oil, but the oil is cheaper ($30- for 8 qts of M1 is fine by me) and the labor is free. Plus they do all the other maint. stuff at each visit as well. If you go by mileage, you probably wont use up you 5 visits in just 2 years.
That documented somewhere so I can show it to the service dept? Because I know for sure they'll deny it. I wanted to get it changed at 5k miles but they said I would have to pay since it's only covered under Toyota care for every 10k
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Black 2012 DC SR5 5.7 - Black Tundra Club Member #137
Westin Platinum Black Oval Nerf Bars, AVS In-Channel Rain Guards, Switched Backup Cam Mod, No DRL Mod,
Anytime Fogs Mod, LED Bed lighting, LED Underbody lighting, All interior/exterior LEDs, LEDGLow tailgate bar,
Black plastidip badges/grill/bumpers/wheels/overhead console, 6000k HID lows, 8000k HID fogs
Tailgate remote lock/unlock/open
Damn! Your oil was pretty used up at 9k miles; and they wanna do it at 10k intervals only? I'm glad you posted your uoa, it gives other people an idea of how long that Toyota oil lasts. IMO, 10k miles would be pushing that oil. Probably wouldn't hurt anything, but they are definitely using that oil to its absolute last second of life. That's cuttin it close, IMO. I can't imagine what condition your oil would be in if you used your truck in "severe conditions", or whatever it is.
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and didn't get any better results than I did with an oem filter.
. Couldn't have done a better job myself 
Danoh's Tundra
I'm glad you posted your uoa, it gives other people an idea of how long that Toyota oil lasts. IMO, 10k miles would be pushing that oil. Probably wouldn't hurt anything, but they are definitely using that oil to its absolute last second of life. That's cuttin it close, IMO. I can't imagine what condition your oil would be in if you used your truck in "severe conditions", or whatever it is.
