3 weeks. Hope it's sooner, but I really just want it to be the right color this time. Guy blamed it on the dealership for giving him the wrong code. I looked it up online before I ordered and gave him the code myself. They seemed pretty surprised, so it must not happen that often.
Luckily I've got plenty of other things to work on. Cap can wait, but it's cutting it close for completing on Aug. 15th.
If you don't have a frig they"re awesome to have. I have a friend and a lot of people on expo use this frig with great success. Great price for a convenience! He runs his in his Fj and a deep cycle optima as primary batt. leaves it on all the time with no problems. My ARB is nice but it's bulky.
Started the build today!! Starting the platform and drawers & modifying the hitch swing arm for gas can mounts. I'll upload some photos and more detials tomorrow.
One of the first things to do was to modify the hitch swing arm so it opened past 110 deg., closer to 160. All I had to do was trim about 5/8" off the right end of the stationary arm (the one connected to the hitch). This will allow me to center the platform but still allow for the tailgate to open. I'll test the weight when extended, but I don't foresee any major issues since I won't be carrying any item that would push the weight limit.
You can see here where the bar binds (I'm sure as designed) to limit the degrees of extension:
This is how much needed to be removed. Still a ways from the hinge bolt. I wanted to reuse the end cap, so I made sure to take it out before cutting.
I don't need the support braces to be so long, so I trimmed them off. I was planning on repositioning the mounting holes to position the platform closer to my bumper anyway, so no loss cutting that end off.
Starting to build & mount the bed drawers. I had to drill the first hols in my brand new truck! I'll have more pics of this process when I get a chance.
Lift comes in today. I'll probably get it bolted up tomorrow. I have an appointment for the tires & alignment Thursday. I'm trying to find pics of a setup similar to mine with 1.5" wheel spacers. If you can point to any, that would be much appreciated.
Taking things apart was a breeze--getting them back together with only one set of hands proved challenging. A good buddy ended up stopping over and helped get the struts back into the lower control arms, helped with aligning the ball joints and steering knuckles, and reattaching the sway bar links to the lower control arms. It probably wouldn't have been impossible to do alone, but I am really thankful he was there to help.
Here are a few pics from the process (it was dark and late by the time I got things back together so no pics with everything bolted up just yet--tomorrow):
Tires off provides a great view of the brand new suspension (I've still got less than 250mi on this thing!):
Lower control arms disconnected from the struts and steering knuckle:
Got the new tires on today!! I did a quick flex / lock test to see where things stand. I cleared everything once the mud flaps were off. Oddly enough, on flat ground, I do rub in reverse at full lock in the front, where the fender liner meets the bumper--just barely.
I'll have to look into what to do there. I'm pretty sure I have a simple couple options.
This quick flex test was into a hill. I'll have to find a better location to do one on a decent. Not sure if it will make any difference testing the clearance.
Ignore the white goop on the tires in the close-ups. It's from the mounting earlier in the day. I was in a hurry to leave the alignment shop and figured I'd be washing everything up soon anyway.
It looks like the rubber will sit just inside the fender flares once their on (I'll be picking them up tomorrow from paint).
Pics from the flex test:
Rear wheel tucks in nicely:
Rear wheel clearance, full tuck:
Front of fender well clearance showing front of wheel turned into vehicle:
Rear of fender well (with body mount) showing back of wheel turned away from vehicle:
Thanks man! Actually, the shocks are still the stock TRD Bilsteins--just with the spacer on top of the strut.
The ride did change a bit though. I want to say it's a little rougher, but it is probably just the aggressive tread on a heavier tire and not the leveling kit. The Nittos are each ~30lbs heavier than the stock tires. When you're taking off from a stop light you can feel the tread. At highway speeds it feels a little looser in the steering, but not a lot. The alignment shop did a great job--rides straight as an arrow.
It feels like there's less body roll too. If anything I'd say cornering has improved, but again it might just be my perception. I think this is due to the spacers pushing the wheel base 3" wider. And maybe the extra weight on the ground is having an effect. Taking sharp highway on/off ramps at speed feels great!
I'd be curious to hear anyone's opinion on this--if I'm just imagining the difference or if there's a possibility that my cornering could have actually improved over the stock setup.
Yo 3TunToy - This is cool, I've got the same truck (right down to the paint) as you and am in the process of doing some similar mods. Just wanted to thank you for sharing your build, it helps me out a bunch. I'll try and do a similar log.
Cap came in earlier then they said after the first one was delivered white. A buddy has a very similar rig (stock 2010 Tundra Reg Cab 4x4) and parked nose to nose with mine. Thought it was a good comparison photo opportunity. I'll get better shots of my truck with the cap soon. Busy day!
I'll have to get back to you on this. I haven't really paid that much attention. It's smooth as hell compared to my old truck, so I would say they ride awesome--but that's a comment about the truck as a whole.
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