Well, my Polk db351 3.5" dash speakers arrived today. Of course I had to install them immediately. The whole process took me a little over 2 hours to do. I could probably re-do it in half the time now!
The dash speaker grates simply pop off. I used a flat head screwdriver and pried them up to get my fingers under them and pulled them off. I used a 10mm socket to loosen the factory mounting bolts and removed the speakers by unhooking them from the harness.
Before I did any wiring, I made the necessary trimming to the stock mounting locations. It wasn't too bad once I busted out the dremel. I removed all of the factory female metal mounting brackets from the stock locations because I wasn't going to be able to re-use them. I had to grind some plastic off of the bottom of the driver side factory grille that snaps over the speakers because the tweeter kept hitting. There is more room on the passenger side and in turn it was easier to modify. Once I had my speakers mocked up and I had the necessary clearances, I moved on to the wiring.
I then un-soldered the factory harness from the factory speakers. I soldered the factory harness to my new speakers, soldering a Polk supplied low frequency filter inline on the positive lead.
Now, I simply plugged the factory wiring harness newly soldered onto my speaker back into the harness in the truck. I fired up my radio to make sure they worked, and then screwed them into place. I snapped the speaker grilles back into place and enjoyed.
These speakers are running off of my head unit at a rated 22w rms. I only listed to 2 or 3 songs, but they are much louder & clearer. I lost the loud screeching treble that my stock speakers were so willing to provide at higher volumes.
I purchased them from Sonic Electronix on ebay for 37.50. They sell them on their website for 44.99, so I got them through ebay. Shipping rate was the same for both. I went with the Polk db's because all my door speakers are Polk db series and I am very pleased with them. Now for some pics:
Because I thought I would cover a broader sound spectrum with a 3.5" netting me better sound quality. I was afraid of just getting the screaming highs with a tweeter and not the lower side of the highs or higher side of the mids to round out the sound. I dunno if I achieved my goal or not because I don't have tweeters to compare them to and I didn't know how big of a pain it would be to mount some tweets in that hole because a lot of the tweets I looked at first didn't have very good descriptions of their mounting hardware.
I initially had the local stereo guy build me a sealed box. After his 2nd unsuccessful attempt, I told him thanks but no thanks. Even with a tape measure he couldn't figure out that there was 5.5" of room and he couldn't build a box 5.5" tall and then stick a sub in it So, my step-brother and I embarked on an adventure to build a ported box for my 10. The sealed box sounded OK, but I was disappointed with the overall volume and it's inability to get low. I didn't expect the world of a shallow mount 10, power acoustik none the less, but man did that ported box wake that thing up! I couldn't be happier with how it sounds and how loud it gets now.
It still wreeks really bad of construction adhesive and my truck was starting to stink real bad. Plus, I had to carpet the damn thing. I decided to get some Herculiner roll in bed liner stuff and use that to finish it. This is the first box I've ever built and I have no freeking clue how to carpet one. Plus, the Herculiner was $21, cheaper than the carpet I found. So, I have the 2nd coat of the Herculiner on 3/4 of the box. I'll finish it up tomorrow after work and hopefully be able to put it back in on Thursday or Friday. I wish I could've found some gray liner, but the black should look alright. Plus, I may even get some acoustic benefits from that bed liner stuff, maybe? I only used 1/2" mdf to build my box. I have some unfinished pics in the DC sub box thread. I bet you're glad you asked me that question
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