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New system install, I think I bricked my HU

2K views 9 replies 6 participants last post by  SP 
#1 · (Edited)
Got around to installing a new system after having tried the OEM Audio+ system. Here's what I ended up with:

Pioneer AVH-4100NEX
Pioneer GM-D9605 5-ch amp
Polk MM-6501 comps
Polk MM-651 coax
JL Audio CS112TG-TW3 12" sub/box
Metra adapters for steering wheel controls, backup cam, power, etc.
Speaker adapters from ebay
Stinger 4g wire and fuse
RCAs and spkr wire from Monoprice
Dynamat Xtreme

I wanted a decent system on the cheap and I got really good deals on everything. I gave myself two days to do the install and after the 2nd day I was only 60% done. I forgot how long it takes to run wires and mat the doors. Tearing apart the interior was, actually, the easiest part of the install.

A few things I came across:

- Since the Polks and sub are all 2 ohm, this amp is pretty darn loud. 100w RMS to the doors + 600w RMS to the sub is plenty for me. Not bad for $300.

- The Polks don't sound as good as I was hoping. I realize that speakers have to break in, but right outta the box these things have no midbass. It seems that some people have this problem and some don't, so I hope it works itself out.

- No issues with mounting the sub behind the rear seat, it fits really well. I decided to go with a sealed enclosure because I don't like boomy bass. This one will need to break in too, but so far it's sounding really good.

- I mounted the amp 1/2" too close to the passenger seat outer mounting bolt so I'll need to pull the amp next weekend and remount it. I used 1/2" plastic risers and put two screws in the existing hump that the stock amp mounted to and then used 3/8" plywood under the carpet just behind the floor vents. With the risers the amp cleared the floor vent and had plenty of room above it for cooling.

- I also tried that mod to make the factory USB interface work with a standard USB cable... I couldn't get it to read a thumb drive. Not a big deal, I'll just buy one of those cheap, kinda-factory-looking plugs from ebay.


Now here's where things have gone bad:

- The passenger seat belt thinks it's not connected and I'm getting the seatbelt warning alarm every time I drive. I re-connected the 3 plugs under the seat a few times now and it's not fixing the problem.

- I tested the HU at least 6 times during the install to verify that things were working. Initially, the ASWC-1 only recognized the volume controls on the steering wheel, but the HU itself functioned correctly. When I finally got everything done and the radio mounted, strange things started happening. First, the backup cam wouldn't engage when shifting to reverse. Then it would engage the cam but there was no image. Then it finally got stuck on the blank cam display permanently. I don't get a splash screen or menu any more, when the HU fires up it goes straight to the blank cam screen and I can't get out of it. Interestingly, now all of the steering wheel controls work but the only buttons on the HU that work are the volume buttons. I did a quick search and I'm not the only one this has happened to but no one has posted a solution.

I haven't had a chance to disconnect the battery to see if it resolves these issues, but what a PITA to spend 2 days working on this only to have the HU stop working (sorta).
 
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#3 ·
no pics?
 
#7 · (Edited)
This thread fell by the roadside so I never updated it. I figured out that I can hold the MUTE button for a few seconds that fixed the blank screen issue. Ultimately, I believe the problem is that I didn't use the voltage converter between the cam and the HU. I haven't ordered it yet so until then, I've got no backup cam.

Sorry, I didn't take any pics.

I will say this, I'm as unhappy with the Polk db6501's today as I was when installed. Oh, and contact cleaner sprayed into the seatbelt receiver fixed the seatbelt warning. It turned out to be the passenger seat.
 
#8 ·
how bad was the OEM Audio+ system, I was going to get there basic sub system but the price is killer. I dont expect my mirrors to shake but it better make the $$$ you spend on it feel worth it.
 
#9 ·
I wouldn't say it was bad, just not a good fit for me. Out of the box, the OEM Audio+ system had some things going on with how sounds fell within the soundstage that really bugged me. Plus I didn't like how subwoofer gain decreased as the volume increased. They re-programmed the amp DSP a few times for me but I wasn't happy with their settings. I live fairly close to their shop so re-programming was a minor inconvenience, I couldn't imagine having to ship the amp to them just to try new programs. It probably works well for certain types of music like pop, hip hop, etc, but in the end I didn't think it was a good value for my money.
 
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