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2008 Tundra-DC Build: Pioneer,Audison,Hybrid, Illusion

7K views 35 replies 6 participants last post by  Sbrock99 
#1 ·
Finally starting my build!!! I will start with the Equipment list that is going to be used:

Source: Pioneer-4000NEX
DSP: Audison BitOne
Tweet: Illusion Audio Beryllium Copper (A-Pillar) TBD
Full Range: Hybrid Audio L3SE (Dash Location) TBD
Midbass: Illusion Audio C8 (Door)
Amplifiers: Audison 5.1k 5 Channel X 2
Subs: Illusion Audio C12XL X 2
Enclosure: TBD
Sound Deadening: RoadKill, Focal BAM and BlackHole Tiles
Wiring: Hooker Audio
 
#2 ·
This looks like an awesome build in the making. And I thought one C12XL was enough. What's going to power the pair of C12XL? I wonder where you're going to put em.

Also, why did you pick the C8 over whatever other woofers you chose from?

Sub'd!
 
#3 ·
I will be running two Audison 5.1k each amp has a D-channel for sub duty. I went with the C8 because of the shallow mounting option without giving lack of power. Yea thats one of the many issues on deciding where to put the C12xl. Maybe just one to start of with!
 
#4 · (Edited)
Those are definitely nice components.

It seems the HU doesn't have a digital output to feed the bit One. It would be logical to go with a more capable HU to take advantage of the downstream equipment's abilities.

You've got 10 channels of amplification, but only 8 drivers. Do plan to bridge the two Class A channels of each amp chassis to feed a single driver, or leave some channels unused? It's extremely rare for a car audio amp to utilize Class A architecture, and bridging them, if even possible wold not be an ideal solution.

You show the L3SE as full range. Do you plan to utilize it in that manner, or as a midrange driver? What is your planned high pass frequency for the C8? I've tried my Focal 6.5s crossed over at both 50 Hz @ 18 dB/octave and 45 Hz @24 dB/octave. I'm pretty sure they'll be comfortably within their limits at 40 Hz @ 24 dB/octave.....which makes going with an 8" driver completely unnecessary.

Did you come up with the design, or did the dealer?

What alternator, 2nd battery, and capacitor do you plan to use? Please describe the planned implementation in greater detail.
 
#5 ·
Grizzman my build plan is Amp-1 A-class 75x2 to Illusion tweet, Amp-2 A-class 75x2 to Hybrid L3SE yes that was a typo Mid-Range was what I ment. I will bridge each amp B-Channels to the Illusion C8's and C-channel for sub duty. As for the HU it allows FLAC to be played on it so that was a plus. I will be using a BitPlay optical going to the Bitone later down the road. Going to use factory Alt for now at max current draw Audison specs shows 110 amps per amp. So I will see but I will add another battery though. This was my design layout anything I should of changed??? All ears for any input.
 
#6 ·
You're in the rare realm of a truly active/bi-tri amped setup. This level of complexity (and cost) is generally reserved for hardcore competitors. At this level, custom A-Pillar pods for the mids and tweets should be seriously considered, to retain proper integration of the crucial mid to tweet crossover region.

If the installation shop (or you) have the ability to determine ideal crossover points/slopes, then it should be an epic system.


Have you read through this thread? It's an example of an exceptionally well designed system.

http://www.tundratalk.net/forums/tundra-audio-visual-discussion/365898-full-stereo-build-08-dc-pics.html
 

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#7 ·
Thanks for the link Grizzman yea I will run factory locations for now yes I'm sure I will move tweet and mid-range to pillar but I will use the Bitone T/A for that. I will be doing all the work myself and I do hope that I can achieve a nice level of sound!!!
 
#8 ·
Got a little work done today cut the back wall amp rack. Need to take the height down to 24.75 inch at 26 now. Going to have to trim out the dash for the Hybrid L3SE will be using a 1/4inch HDPE baffle ring to mount it to the exsisting factory bolts. Few pics to boot... This is the gear that will be on the amp rack!!! Two Audison 5.1k's and Audison Bitone
 

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#11 ·
The same system is still in place for the moment. However, this is the audio porn I stare at whenever I walk into the office.



It's driving me nuts that it's all just sitting there, but we had a family emergency we had to leave town for last week for 7 days, so that put things on hold. I now have everything I need to switch it all out though. My new Rockford Maxi fuses just showed up last week and was the last of the little things.

I'm also helping a buddy do an install on his new Fiat 500, so I'd like to get his done first since I already have a system and he doesn't. We've reached a small wall trying to figure out how to properly wire up his MS-8 to the factory HU, but were both digging for answers.

Here's our build log for his.

2014 Fiat 500 SQ build - Car Audio | DiyMobileAudio.com | Car Stereo Forum

Mark
 
#12 ·
Sorry to hear about your family emergency hope everything is ok!! Family always comes first.

Oh that is a nice stack of Zapco's I bet the will really make your exsisting system really shine!

Here is a link I found I dont know if it will help or not. Do you have any equipment to test the signal on the output of the factory amp?

How to Replace the BOSE system and keep Blue & Me
 
#13 ·
Thanks Bucky, appreciate the condolences.

I think we have found a Metra harness to make life easy on his install, but I'm going to call them tomorrow to verify before we order anything else. I have only basic car audio install skills, but this is my first stab at a DSP, so I want to make sure we do this right.

Thanks for the link, we actually used that as a reference for taking the doors apart. I appreciate you taking the time to look that up.

If you need, or know anyone looking....two of those Zapcos 150.2's are for sale.
 
#15 ·
Man, using the BitOne for scale, those amps look huge. A clean layout is gonna be tough, but that looks like it'll look nice the way you have it. Are you going to carpet the amp rack? And is that an all-in-one disto block on the upper right? StreetWires used to make one like that, but they are getting pretty rare these days.

BTW, I found the wiring diagram for the Fiat. Problem solved. Thanks again

Mark
 
#16 ·
Both amps prob weigh 40-45lbs yea I will cover it with carpet or vinyl. The distro block is from electromedia-connection yes its all-in-one.

Awesome where did you find the diagram at. Is the amp using built in crossovers or what? Are you going to be able to sum from the factory amp out?
 
#18 ·
Awesome where did you find the diagram at. Is the amp using built in crossovers or what? Are you going to be able to sum from the factory amp out?

I found the wiring diagram at Crutchfield support site.

2012-2014 Fiat 500 Wiring Information

They have diagrams for Tundras as well, and it's free. For his car, the MS-8 is taking care of all the heavy lifting. We will be taking the front left and right before the amp and going into the MS-8. MS-8 to JL MHD 900/5. Now that we have the diagram it should be pretty straight forward.
 
#24 ·
Fleece it. Then glass it. Then milkshake it. Also, what are you doing spending that much money on equipment and then doing the cheapo speaker placement? Have someone build you some pillars or do it yourself. Reflections off your windshield sound like crap. Get a dashmat to minimize reflections as much as possible either way. Are you doing the digital out of the processor to the amps or RCAs? Your install is very similar to my old one, (bit one.1 to two lrx 5.1k and two lrx 2.9). I bet it will sound good. Curious to see how the hybrids sound with the new audisons. I ran morel for a while and that combo was a bit to mellow for my tastes.
 
#25 ·
I guess I dont about the milkshake step!! I will rock the cheap-o speaker placement first. I will prob try to build pillars after I play around with this setup for the time being. I will either try a BitPlay or pure I20 dont know yet. The HU plays FLAC so I will venture down that road next. I really like Morel and thank again for the input!!!
 
#26 ·
It's resin and filler with the correct amount of hardener. It's not a replacement for fiberglass but I use it in corners and stuff where it's hard to get matt to lay nicely. Sucks to sand so be careful of placement. Don't use bondo brand filler or you will hate it.
 
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