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Sound Deadening?????

36K views 87 replies 30 participants last post by  CoastieRon 
#1 ·
I have a 2014 Crewmax .. Installing new system wondering how much sound deadening to buy, what thickness and what brand. I dont want to do the headliner or the floor just the front and back doors and the rear window area. Any sugestions would be great.. Also anyone get one of the 38 JBL MS 8 's off e-bay yesterday for $130 that wants to sell one for a profit??
 
#3 · (Edited)
I've got dynamat extreme. I did all 4 doors, and rear cab wall. It cost me like $150 on amazon. It was one of the larger packs. Worth every penny. I used 99% of it. I did full doors and full rear cab wall.

Dynamat 10455 18" x 32" x 0.067" Thick Self-Adhesive Sound Deadener with Xtreme Bulk Pack, (Set of 9)
 
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#4 ·
I missed that crazy ebay deal yesterday, but it was all the talk over on DIY. I just bought an MS-8 off Amazon last week for $419, but I had a bunch of Amazon gift cards from Christmas to soften the blow.

I used a mixture of Dynamat Extreme and Second Skin Damp Pro in my DC. Not too much difference between the two that I could notice, but I found my Dynamat on Amazon for $125 a box for the bulk pack. This was a few years ago though. I think it's up to $150 now. I used 3 bulk packs and one bulk pack of Second Skin to cover the entire interior of my DC.















Ensolite CCF overtop the Dynamat.







Hope that was helpful

Mark
 
#24 ·
Awesome layout you have there......

Tundra PORN!!!! nevah seen one neeked before....drool....!!

This would be a candidate for a how-to-u-toob vid to have stickied!!:eek:hyeah:
 
#5 ·
I also used Dynamat Extreme, and bought a bulk pack from Amazon for $145. I did the rear bulkhead and inner and outer skins of the front doors, and like texas boy, had a bit left over.
 
#6 ·
@Jumbo Jet how much of a difference is it in the cab now? Id assume a massive change, yea?
 
#7 ·
Yeah, it's a night and day difference inside the cab now. The most noticeable improvement was the roof. A heavy Florida afternoon rain storm no longer feels like you're trapped inside of a metal garden shed. You can barely hear a drop on the roof now. The doors feel and shut very solid. It was a tremendous improvement and my truck is quiter than my wife's Acura. I highly recommend it, it's a great DIY project
 
#8 ·
Deaden

Definitely worth the work!
CLD/CCF/MLV make a huge difference

i started experimenting with Roxul Safe n Sound in door panels and pillers... dash is next.

looking to order 3M Thinsulate for next round of fun...


Oh yeah, i did get lucky and snag a MS8 ... saw the deal posted early on DIYMA... not sure if i am gonna run the MS8... have 360.3 installed now
 
#28 ·
Definitely worth the work!
CLD/CCF/MLV make a huge difference

i started experimenting with Roxul Safe n Sound in door panels and pillers... dash is next.

looking to order 3M Thinsulate for next round of fun...


Oh yeah, i did get lucky and snag a MS8 ... saw the deal posted early on DIYMA... not sure if i am gonna run the MS8... have 360.3 installed now
Hey there, still have that MS-8? I'd be interested in it if you do.
 
#56 ·
I've used RAAMmat in my past two vehicles and really liked the outcome and I plan to use it again in my '14 CM.
I just started this weekend sound deadening my truck as well. went with RAAMmat also. So far I only have the doors and back wall finished and crazy night and day difference. Cant wait to finish roof and floor.

RAAMmat is also great because its easy to mold to the panels and doesn't chew up your fingers.
 
#10 ·
@Jumbo Jet, I wanted to do the roof as well, but was worried of possible paint issue on top. Someone told me it would trap heat and cause the paint to fail sooner....not sure of this. so I never did it. how easy was it to remove the headliner and how much material did you use?
 
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#11 ·
headliner



hmmm.. havent heard of that - trapping heat. When i did my roof, kept the heat out of the cab in a big way.

CLD tiles on roof, then add 3m thinsulate or Roxul Safe n Sound to space between headliner and roof....

you wont even know if its raining outside or not...LOL
 
#12 ·
I used Fatmat, was the most affordable. Many people I had found online when researching suggested regular butyl roof material (I think that's what it was used for, I forget). They said it just smells stronger, I said no to that idea.

I did my truck on a budget.

I think I used appx 30-50sq ft. They used to offer smaller rolls, I know I used 3 of them. Might have been 30 sqft. I think at the time they offered 15 sq ft bulk rolls, so might have been 45. Not sure.

It worked good, seemed to match dynamat as far as mil and quality.
 
#14 · (Edited)
Also, do the inside of the doors, the inside of the outer panels... That also made a huge difference. I reached every spot I could, you will likely bleed and have callouses and blisters if you don't use gloves, so use some mechanic type gloves. I didn't and regretted it later.

AND do NOT put any on the little box that is just mounted with a tab in the C pillar. I found out it is the factory fob receiver. I had to peel it all off. The crappy mount tab is cheap and it just kinda vibrates around. I had to stand 5 feet from the truck to get the remote start to work. It would unlock from about half the normal distance, but wouldn't recognize the long hold to remote start it.
 
#19 · (Edited)
Before you buy all the name brand items check out this site. Welcome to Sound Deadener Showdown | Sound Deadener Showdown

You could email the guy and he is extremely helpful. Most people get to much then really needed and also put things in the wrong places. CCF is ok for the floor but not the right application like the picture above. Check the site I posted above to learn a few things on your own or take the advice from others here. But you only need CLD tiles on thin sheet metal areas of you truck, such as the doors, roof, fire wall, and rear wall. Get and use CCF to place in between parts that are removable and could vibrate against other parts , such as B-pillar panels, door panels, rear panel. Use MLV to cover areas such as your floor and firewall area.

Check out the build I did in my truck off this site. I went over board a little but not as much is needed.
2013 Tundra Build (slow) - Build Logs - SSA Car Audio Forum
 
#21 ·
I've used this. It's an excellent insulator both for temperature comfort and noise. However, if you're buying Sound Deadener Showdown products I recommend sticking with their formula of 1/8" closed cell foam cemented to their mass loaded vinyl and adhered to the vehicle with their heavy duty velcro strips. It takes a long time to install those products, but it's all easily removable and the results are phenomenal. If you have space for it, 3M Thinsulate Acoustic is nice to layer on top of the MLV, or you can use it above the headliner, inside open cavities in the body where it won't get damp, and so on.
 
#23 ·
After you do it can you post the outcome as far as sound deadening and what not?
 
#29 · (Edited)
If anyone was on a tighter budget. I used peel n seal from Lowes. It is only 6 inches wide and 25 feet long for I think $17. It equals about $1.50/sq.ft. I used about 125sqft on my old 4Runner and works great. I used it on my front doors so far and can tell a difference. Noise coming in now noticeably from the rear of the truck. I like it being only 6 in wide cause it easier to do the inside of the doors. And below the tube brace where I couldn't get my hands, I used rubber undercoating sprayed 2-3 coats.
 

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#31 ·
Just found this thread and I am amazed. I have been wanting to do this for quite awhile but my truck is my daily driver. How long on average did it take complete the whole cab? including removing the interior and putting it all back.
 
#33 ·
Took me a full day to do my 2014 DC.
I mean from 8AM to 6PM..
I disconnected the neg battery terminal to pull my front seats because of the air bags in them.





 
#32 ·
I did the 4 doors (inside and out), rear wall and most of the floor in Dynamat.
I used 2 of these
[ame]http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00020CB2S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1[/ame]

I did the rear wall and rear floor area in 1/4 Dynamat.
2 of these
Amazon.com: Dynamat 11102 Dynaliner 32" x 54" x 1/4" Thick Self-Adhesive Sound Deadener: Automotive

I did not cover every square inch like some of you did.
But I did the best I could with the budget I had.









It certainly got rid of the noise that sounded like a rear window was open.
Also my 7" BAMuffler kit should arrive today..

Thinking about putting a solid layer of 1/8" Dynaliner on the front doors and front floorboard .
I didn't do the roof, but looking at these pics sure makes me want to do it.
I might just have to do that and see if it keeps the interior cooler in the 100 degree summers.
Does doing the roof make it much quieter?
 
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#34 ·
how difficult is it to dynamat the doors ? in some of the images it looks like the dynamat is both on top of the outer frame of the door and also inside of the door ?
 
#35 ·
It's pretty easy. Once you remove the door panel, peel back the plastic weather barrier and you'll have plenty of room to slide Dynamat inside the door. You can cut it into strips to make install easier. Once you do the outer part of the door, replace the weather barrier and cover the inside. Don't cover the plastic barrier with Dynamat, it's a waste of material. You can disgauard the weather barrier and seal the holes with thin sheets of metal from Home Depot. If you go that route, then cover that with Dynamat.

You'll need a straight edge, a utility knife, a small wooden roller and a pair of gloves. I recommend wearing some old clothes too....if the butyl gets on your clothes, it's not coming off. The gloves will keep your hands from getting cut up. The aluminum backing is pretty sharp.

It's really easy, once you do one door, you'll fly through the other three.

Hope that helps
 
#37 · (Edited)
No problemo. I bought 4 rolls of Reckhorn dampener on Amazon for $47 a roll. So much cheaper than Dynamat Extreme and besides the color of the foil, it's an identical product. .80 mil thickness, same specs as Dynamat X.

[ame]http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005JRZPMM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1[/ame]

A side by side for you







I bought my MLV from sound deadened showdown, but the price on the Reckhorn was too good to pass up on Amazon
 
#38 ·
how many rolls of that do you think I would need to just do the doors ? I only care about preventing any vibration / rattling and less concerned about keeping outer noise out. Should I do the back wall if I'm putting a sub under the back seats ?
 
#39 ·
You could probably get away with two rolls of Reckhorn for just your doors. You don't HAVE to cover every square inch of metal with it, although it makes most of us (myself included) feel better if we do. The roll in my picture is about 13 feet long. The width is the same as the Dynamat, I think 19", but I'll have to check. The roll is around 21 sqft.

I'm doing the same on the new truck as I did on my current Tundra. I'm covering the doors, floor, back wall and roof. I have 4 rolls for now, if I need another one I'll grab it.
 
#40 ·
Wow, that reckhorn looks like a great deal, I went with Fatmat but its only 50mil for roughly the same price at amazon. Thanks @Jumbo Jet for making me aware of that product, I hadn't seen that mentioned on this site yet. There's so many sound deadeners out there its hard to know what's best/most cost effective.
 
#42 ·
Products | Sound Deadener Showdown

This is a great read to learn about proper use of CDL tiles. As I said, most of us love going overboard with CDL, it's fun and it looks cool to cover every square inch, but only a few pieces here and there are all that's really needed. CDL kills the vibration in a panel. MLV (mass loaded vinyl) is what is required to kill road and outside noise. My 90 sqft roll of MLV just arrived yesterday. That will cover my doors, all floor and back wall.

On his site, he has a Tundra broken down to every piece of material he sells. Click on Toyota on the left, then Tundra to figure out how much of each product you'll need.
 
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