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#1 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 2
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Hello everyone!
I don't have a *Tundra*, I have a 91 Toyota xCab 4x4, though it seems fairly active here, and I just need some chaining tips... 1. This Sunday I'll be going over a couple of 4000-5000 foot passes that have required chains all week, unless I've got snow tires which I do not... 2. I've got good quality chains - they came with the truck, I assume there's only 2, I've never had a reason to look in the bag. They are the diamond kind, according to the picture on the bag. 3. The amount of chains-required mileage for non-4wd vehicles is about 20-40 miles in 3 seperate spots. 4wd's with no snow tires must chain up for about 10-15 miles. Are there any tips for chaining up? Obviously this will be my first trip... -I assume you put them out straight , roll over them, wrap them around (the tire) and hook them together. -If I've got two chains, should I use them for the front or the back tires? -Should I take them off when chains are not required, or just leave them on because I'm not used to driving in snow and my tires are just basic? -Should I use 4wd with the chains on? -Will driving a long ways in chains damage the tires at all? Thanks for any help you've got for me.... Tanith |
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#2 (permalink) | |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 4
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#3 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 2
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When I think of snow tires, I think big grooved chunky things... The tires are just kind of standard looking. (I didn't bring the truck to work today.) The former owners used the truck for ski area travel, so maybe so. Thanks!
Any other advice? |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: San Gabriel Valley
Posts: 1,884
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Just lay out your chains and drive over them. There is an inside and out. Try them on before you start on your trip for two reasons, 1 you will know how they go on before your trying to do it with frozen fingers, 2 you will know if they do fit the tires correctly (not mislabled). I would stay in 4WD even with chains. If you try them on the front be sure you have the room when you turn. Rember the centrificical (spelling?) force will make it taller than your tires when driving. You dont want to take off the front end. rember not to drive too fast as well. Last of all don't try to impress people by not chaining up if you really think you should. Good luck
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#5 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 59
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Make sure you have the chains installed with the cut ends of the cross link connector AWAY from the sidewalls. They are sharp and will cut the tires if installed the wrong way.
If you put them on the front tires, check carefully that they will not catch on anything when you turn the wheels left and right. Most vehicle now days don't have a lot of extra room in the wheel wells. You will have to drive slow. Have you seen how the rear tires on a drag racer get larger as they go faster? Not that the chain will stretch, but you can't get them tight enough to not fly up a little bit. On bare pavement it will be like a road full of speed bumps. I would put them on when needed and take them back off when not. |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: SLC, Utah
Posts: 722
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Quote:
Snow & Ice tires have a very close, blocky tread pattern and are heavily sipped. They're also made with a much softer, gummier rubber compound that will wear out very quickly under normal hot, dry road conditions; which is why most people usually have a winter set of tires on cheap rims that they run only during the late fall and winter months. Also, despite popular belief, for driving in most snow and ice conditions on a hard road surface, much thinner tires, or "pie cutters" as some of us refer to them, are actually better for traction than big, wide tires that have the tendency to float on top of the snow and ice. Thin tires are better for cutting through to the road surface because the entire weight of the vehicle is being distributed on a smaller contact patch, meaning increase psi of contact patch on the road surface. Big, wide tires with aggressive treads are best suited for deep snow, mud and sand.
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In racing, speed costs money... How fast do you want to go? |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: ID
Posts: 298
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Quote:
Yes, definitly try them on before you leave home, to be sure they fit correctly. They aren't much good if they're too big or too small.
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#8 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Helena, Montana
Posts: 793
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Get good chain tighteners!! That keeps the chains from flopping around and doing damage to your vehicle. Also...if there is an extra links on the inside fastner loop...tie them up so they don't damage anything like a brake line. I put my chains over the tire first then drive over them. It's easier than laying them out, driving over then having to pull a heavy chain up the tire to fasten. I basically get them fitted before driving over them. Years and years of using chains in snow and bitter cold have taught me to do it quick so I don't freeze my arse off.
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2008 DC 4x4 TRD IBTO I ain't as good as I once was but I am as good once as I ever was. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Bremerton, WA
Posts: 191
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I keep a handfull of big zipties with the chain kit to tie down the loose ends. also, spare chain tighteners. After driving 1/4 mile or so, I check/retighten the chains. Loose chains or just loose ends can rip out brake lines or damage the body. This is probably gonna start endless debate: If you only have one pair of chains, they go on the rear tires. That keeps the backend in back...not fishtailing past the rest of the truck when you try to stop. If the vehicle won't go without chains up front, use 2 pairs. The designated 'chain-up' areas are the turf of professional, freelance chainmonkeys...cost of mount/dismount ranges from $20 - $60 depending on what you're driving, your attitude, etc. Just bring a garbage bag to kneel on, wear clothes you can wallow in and do it yourself. Oh yeah,...and do a trial install at home.
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