Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Whitecourt/Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
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I just bought the parts to do that. I'll get to it eventually, maybe when it's warmer.
Get a cast aluminum NEMA single gang enclosure, the kind that you would use on a building outside, a GFCI outlet (sometimes you can get them as a bundle along with the enclosure and includes the weatherproof cover), and a cover if not... and either the new liquidtight flexible conduit (made out of rigid coated spiral plastic) or the older TECK stuff (metal conduit with plastic covering) in the correct length and the correct size fittings (the enclosures use threaded 1/2" usually). Run the conduit along the frame rails into the cab, attach fittings and use silicone (or equivalent) to make the threads watertight, then add your wire (14AWG x 3 Black White Green) into the conduit and wire the GFCI plug and hardwire into your inverter, or if your inverter doesn't do hardwire then just terminate the other end into a normal NEMA 5-15 plug and then plug it into the AC sockets on the inverter.
This is advantageous to extending the 12V line, which you can already get off the 7-pin connector (and various places sell 7-pin to lighter plug adapters) because of the higher voltage meaning less current for the same amount of power. The wiring can be smaller in this case and the voltage drop across the wire is less significant - losing a few volts on a 120V line is not significant, equipment continues to function, but losing a few volts on a 12V line is a big deal because the equipment (inverter) will often trip off from the undervoltage condition.
2011 F-350 SD - SRW XLT FX4 CCLB: 6.7L PSD, 6R140, 3.55:1 EL, Job 2 / BDS 6" 4-Link, Fox 2.0, 38x13.50R18, 18x9 Fuel D525, H&S Gearhead MCC.
2015 RAM 3500 - SRW ST D28L92 4x4 CCLB: B6.7, G56, 3.42:1 / DPF SCR Removed.