Join Date: Aug 2012
Thanked 14 Times in 1 Post
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I’ve used this website as a reference ever since I purchased my Tundra in ’09. I recently had to perform some service and thought I’d share my experience in case anyone could benefit from it.
I have a 2007, double cab, 2w drive, 5.7 liter, all black model with around 67k miles.
3 weeks ago my dash lit up like a Christmas tree and my radio began to power on/off on its own while I was driving. Luckily I was 2 blocks from my house and just pulled it into the driveway. I called the dealership and looked up info online and found it was either the battery or the alternator, or in my case… both. I replaced the battery (original from 2007) with ease from AutoZone. I then began noticing a high pitch (not too loud) noise that would increase when I accelerated. A buddy of mine suggested having my alternator checked. I did, and it was bad. I didn’t just take AutoZone’s word for it, so I had another shop check it out as well and they said the diodes where going bad. It wasn’t terrible, but the alternator would most likely fail soon. I ended up trying several shops looking for my alternator. AutoZone, CarQuest, Napa, and even the original shop that ran the diagnostic had no luck. My alternator is the smaller one of the 3 offered for my engine type/year. I have the 100AMP model. The 130 and 150 would be for the 4w drive models or those with the ‘snow’ package. After a lot of internet searching, I finally was able to order it as a vendor direct part from Advance Auto. It was a reman model with a limited lifetime warranty for only $260 after tax w/ a $58 core charge. The OEM was around $685 after discounts from Toyota (in addition to $450+ for labor) and another OEM parts store on the web. Anyway, it took around 8 days to finally get it here. A buddy and I put it on this past weekend.
Here is how we did it:
Tools we used:
-Multiple socket wrenches (primarily the 14mm)
-Cheater bar to break a few of the bolts lose
-Torque wrench when putting the new alternator in (32lbs torque)
-Small screwdriver to hold the tension pulley in place while we took off the belt
-Four Way Lug Wrench to remove the tire
-3 ton stationary jack to hold the truck up while the tire was off
1) Remove the negative (–) battery terminal so there is no power going to the alternator.
2) Remove the passenger front tire (a good portion of the work was done through the wheel well)
3) Disconnect 3 of the 5 inner fender fasteners on the flap protecting the engine bay from the wheel well. We took off only 3 and tucked the whole thing in the top corner out of the way.
4) Loosen the tension pulley, remove the serpentine belt, and leave the tension pulley loose until you put the belt back on.
5) Remove the ground nut and plug on the alternator.
6) You will need to remove 2 bolts from the power steering pump (Vane pump) to access the alternator (We did this through the wheel well). You will remove one bolt from the top (longer bolt) and one from the middle (shorter bolt). There are two bolt heads on the top facing the front of the vehicle. We removed the one closest to us (passenger side). The 2nd top bolt should be located right next to the 1st, but you would not be able to reach it with a socket wrench due to the pulley. I only described that one due to the fact that we wasted 30min trying to remove it before realizing that it wasn’t necessary. The 2nd bolt that needs to be removed can be accessed with a socket wrench going through the pulley in roughly the middle of the pump. Once these 2 are removed, you should be able to wiggle it out of the way.
7) You should be able to see the alternator easily now. You will then remove 3 bolts and 1 nut on the alternator. 1 bolt and the nut are accessed through the wheel well (should be easily visible). We used a couple extensions to access the bolt through the wheel well. The other 2 bolts are longer ones located on the bottom of the alternator (easily accessed from underneath the vehicle). Once you have all 4 off (not that hard at all) you should be able to manipulate the alternator to come out through the wheel well (it took some effort and there was one of us holding the power steering pump from the top out of the way to make it happen.
8) Be sure to remove the small, black bracket from the alternator once it’s removed (you can remove this bracket while it’s still in the engine bay if it helps you get it out, but we left it on until the whole thing was out of the truck).
9) Put your new alternator in place and bolt back on. Be sure to put the smaller black bracket on your new alternator. My bracket was only to hold the original alternator plug wire in place. There was a threaded hole there that wasn’t used. I assume it’s there for some of the larger alternators.
10) Reverse the remainder of your steps until everything is put back together.
We noticed a decent amount of wear on my serpentine belt when we took it off and decided to go ahead and replace it at this time. I was able to pick up the same brand with a 3yr warranty from Advance Auto for $55 (it was a wash when I took the original alternator back to the store to get my core credit).
I’m not the most mechanically inclined, but this job wasn’t the hardest thing I’ve done on the truck. It took us around 3 to 3.5 hrs. I’m sure someone that is familiar with this kind of work could easily shave 30min to 1hr off of that time.
Hope this helps anyone running into a similar situation.