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#1 (permalink) Old 08-20-2012, 09:55 PM
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Alternator replacement

Hello everyone,

Iíve used this website as a reference ever since I purchased my Tundra in í09. I recently had to perform some service and thought Iíd share my experience in case anyone could benefit from it.

I have a 2007, double cab, 2w drive, 5.7 liter, all black model with around 67k miles.

3 weeks ago my dash lit up like a Christmas tree and my radio began to power on/off on its own while I was driving. Luckily I was 2 blocks from my house and just pulled it into the driveway. I called the dealership and looked up info online and found it was either the battery or the alternator, or in my caseÖ both. I replaced the battery (original from 2007) with ease from AutoZone. I then began noticing a high pitch (not too loud) noise that would increase when I accelerated. A buddy of mine suggested having my alternator checked. I did, and it was bad. I didnít just take AutoZoneís word for it, so I had another shop check it out as well and they said the diodes where going bad. It wasnít terrible, but the alternator would most likely fail soon. I ended up trying several shops looking for my alternator. AutoZone, CarQuest, Napa, and even the original shop that ran the diagnostic had no luck. My alternator is the smaller one of the 3 offered for my engine type/year. I have the 100AMP model. The 130 and 150 would be for the 4w drive models or those with the Ďsnowí package. After a lot of internet searching, I finally was able to order it as a vendor direct part from Advance Auto. It was a reman model with a limited lifetime warranty for only $260 after tax w/ a $58 core charge. The OEM was around $685 after discounts from Toyota (in addition to $450+ for labor) and another OEM parts store on the web. Anyway, it took around 8 days to finally get it here. A buddy and I put it on this past weekend.

Here is how we did it:
Tools we used:
-Multiple socket wrenches (primarily the 14mm)
-Socket extensions
-Cheater bar to break a few of the bolts lose
-Torque wrench when putting the new alternator in (32lbs torque)
-Small screwdriver to hold the tension pulley in place while we took off the belt
-Four Way Lug Wrench to remove the tire
-3 ton stationary jack to hold the truck up while the tire was off

1) Remove the negative (Ė) battery terminal so there is no power going to the alternator.
2) Remove the passenger front tire (a good portion of the work was done through the wheel well)
3) Disconnect 3 of the 5 inner fender fasteners on the flap protecting the engine bay from the wheel well. We took off only 3 and tucked the whole thing in the top corner out of the way.
4) Loosen the tension pulley, remove the serpentine belt, and leave the tension pulley loose until you put the belt back on.
5) Remove the ground nut and plug on the alternator.
6) You will need to remove 2 bolts from the power steering pump (Vane pump) to access the alternator (We did this through the wheel well). You will remove one bolt from the top (longer bolt) and one from the middle (shorter bolt). There are two bolt heads on the top facing the front of the vehicle. We removed the one closest to us (passenger side). The 2nd top bolt should be located right next to the 1st, but you would not be able to reach it with a socket wrench due to the pulley. I only described that one due to the fact that we wasted 30min trying to remove it before realizing that it wasnít necessary. The 2nd bolt that needs to be removed can be accessed with a socket wrench going through the pulley in roughly the middle of the pump. Once these 2 are removed, you should be able to wiggle it out of the way.
7) You should be able to see the alternator easily now. You will then remove 3 bolts and 1 nut on the alternator. 1 bolt and the nut are accessed through the wheel well (should be easily visible). We used a couple extensions to access the bolt through the wheel well. The other 2 bolts are longer ones located on the bottom of the alternator (easily accessed from underneath the vehicle). Once you have all 4 off (not that hard at all) you should be able to manipulate the alternator to come out through the wheel well (it took some effort and there was one of us holding the power steering pump from the top out of the way to make it happen.
8) Be sure to remove the small, black bracket from the alternator once itís removed (you can remove this bracket while itís still in the engine bay if it helps you get it out, but we left it on until the whole thing was out of the truck).
9) Put your new alternator in place and bolt back on. Be sure to put the smaller black bracket on your new alternator. My bracket was only to hold the original alternator plug wire in place. There was a threaded hole there that wasnít used. I assume itís there for some of the larger alternators.
10) Reverse the remainder of your steps until everything is put back together.

We noticed a decent amount of wear on my serpentine belt when we took it off and decided to go ahead and replace it at this time. I was able to pick up the same brand with a 3yr warranty from Advance Auto for $55 (it was a wash when I took the original alternator back to the store to get my core credit).

Iím not the most mechanically inclined, but this job wasnít the hardest thing Iíve done on the truck. It took us around 3 to 3.5 hrs. Iím sure someone that is familiar with this kind of work could easily shave 30min to 1hr off of that time.

Hope this helps anyone running into a similar situation.
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#2 (permalink) Old 09-12-2012, 02:46 PM
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Thank you for your post. It was excellent info.
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#3 (permalink) Old 12-23-2012, 05:22 PM
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Unhappy Stranded Daughter Yikes

My Daughter is stranded in San Marcos Texas -- Auto Zone says it's the Alternator. There was a mechanic behind her in line and offered help to her.

The vin number points to the 150Amp according to the parts guy but the truck in this post is the same as hers
07 5.7 2 wheel and it is a 100Amp??

It is rough trying to find one --

O'Reilly has one that I could get by Wednesday for $260

Any help or input is appreciated...
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#4 (permalink) Old 12-23-2012, 06:09 PM
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I don't know if u guys r into buying used parts, but mine went out a while back n I went to lkq n got one of a seqoia with 20k miles on it for $120, took 1 day to get. Mine was a 150amp.

P.s. wait til u guys have to do the starter, its almost as much fun. I'll knock on wood so u won't have to

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#5 (permalink) Old 12-23-2012, 07:32 PM
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I have an old 96 Subie Legacy and everything is right there -- easy fixin...

Disappointed on the design on a few things -- even worse is having my daughter dealing with it away from home
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#6 (permalink) Old 12-23-2012, 10:16 PM
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I just replaced mine from O'reiley's yesterday. Not sure if I have the 100 amp or 150 amp. I lost the sticker on the orig alternator. Fits perfect. So far no hiccups on the electrical. Felt heavy to turn at first start up. Maybe cause the battery is slightly drained. But after a few miles, 27 miles, it's normal now.
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#7 (permalink) Old 12-23-2012, 10:44 PM
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Thanks for the reply..

I'll order the O'Rilley one tomorrow and it'll be in on Wednesday --

There was a mechanic behind my daughter when she was at Auto Zone and he's helped out a lot already. I'll post up his name if it works out -- he's a local guy in San Marcus Texas -- never know when you'll need something or someone

He saw the need for these young girls and is helping out!
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#8 (permalink) Old 12-23-2012, 11:40 PM
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If you have the tow package then you have a 150 amp.

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#9 (permalink) Old 12-24-2012, 09:59 AM
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My VIN number points to the 100 amp alternator. It has an after market trailer lighting. Does this seem right?
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#10 (permalink) Old 12-24-2012, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by storell View Post
My VIN number points to the 100 amp alternator. It has an after market trailer lighting. Does this seem right?
Yes, you will only have a 150 amp alternator if you have a factory tow package. If you tow, however, and need a new alternator I would spend the extra coin and upgrade to the 150 amp.


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#11 (permalink) Old 12-24-2012, 10:06 AM
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This looks like a good deal on a brand new (not remanufactured) 150 amp.

ALTERNATOR 5.7 TOYOTA TUNDRA TRUCK 07 08 09 10 11 & 4.6 PICKUP 10 11 & SEQUOIA : Amazon.com : Automotive ALTERNATOR 5.7 TOYOTA TUNDRA TRUCK 07 08 09 10 11 & 4.6 PICKUP 10 11 & SEQUOIA : Amazon.com : Automotive


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#12 (permalink) Old 12-28-2012, 01:22 PM
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The saga continues... So the alternator was replaced and my Daughter started heading home from San Marcos back to Conroe and the battery light came on and the needle started moving around. She made it home though

This morning went back to O'reiley's and they tested it and it's bad?? Could this have been a bad one or? Anything else that I can check once I swap this one out?

Thanks for any help in advance!!
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#13 (permalink) Old 12-28-2012, 01:49 PM
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Excellent write-up, thanks Myke! Comes in handy for those of us who aren't mechanically inclined, but would like to do our own maintenance and repairs, and save several hundo from going to the dealerships
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#14 (permalink) Old 12-28-2012, 01:57 PM
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Thumbs up

awesome write up! got this thread in the bank when i need it. i am hovering around 60k on my 08' with original batt. and alternator as well.

pimped to perfection!
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#15 (permalink) Old 12-28-2012, 02:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by storell View Post
The saga continues... So the alternator was replaced and my Daughter started heading home from San Marcos back to Conroe and the battery light came on and the needle started moving around. She made it home though

This morning went back to O'reiley's and they tested it and it's bad?? Could this have been a bad one or? Anything else that I can check once I swap this one out?

Thanks for any help in advance!!
I've had nothing but bad luck with remans from places like Napa and Advance auto. I went through 2 reman starters from napa for an old chevy and 3 alternators from Advance for a different chevy truck. Now i'm not blaming GM at all for this but the stores who source these remans from crappy companies. So it doesn't surprise me at all when your "new" alternator is a lemon. Even the guy at Advance wasn't surprised i was back for replacements so apparently this is common for them.

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