I bought my 07 in Vegas and have been living in Buffalo,NY now for about 2 yrs now and my everything is getting rusty quick. It looks like some rides have some black rustproofing done because the underside is all black and paint free...rust converter? I don't know, never had to deal with it before. Has anyone had something like this done? Wanna get it sandblasted or cleaned somehow and rustproofed before it get worse.
The NAPA auto parts stores around here sell a product called (Fluid Film). It sticks to everything and protects pretty well from rust. You can spray it yourself. I run my Ram thru a bottom blast car wash, let it dry, then spread some 4 mil poly under the truck and blast everything. I even spray inside the doors. Remove fender liners before if you can. It's made from lanolin and is nontoxic, smells for a few days though. I think you need to reapply every few years. I'm in Maine, the salt capitol and my truck is still rust free at 180,000 mi.
Do not mention his name here. He spits on us and talks crap and you're directing people to him from our site? I don't think so. I know you're neutral and that's fine, but please do not mention him here.
Thanks fellas, both seem good but does dirt and stuff stick to fluidfilm? Also is it okay to cover rusty nuts and bolts with these products?
And you just apply those products to the vehicle underside as is, no special cleaning? Isn't that bad...
POR-15 has a special prep solution you need to use which puts a zinc coating on the metal. Spray it on, let it sit 15 minutes, wash it off, let it dry, then paint. Any flakey rust should be removed but you don't have to remove surface rust.
I bought a fluid film kit.
It came with an applicator spray gun, flexible wand, gallon of FF, & a spray can for touch ups.
It was like $79 shipped for the kit.
I will find the link & post it.
Fluid Film has to be applied once or twice a year. Safe for bolts/nuts, but not for pure rubber seals over a long period of time. You need to read the contents. It also stinks according to someone I've heard from, at least if you do it inside.
POR-15 is a one time application, but you need to degrease, metal prep (phosphorus coating - etches the metal), apply two coats and spray over anything that's exposed to UV light with a top coat. Also, don't get it on the threads or underneath any of the nuts/bolts; it sticks like glue. You should also wear a mask if you plan on doing the entire frame.
I did my entire truck in POR-15 after it was covered in surface rust. Had to wirebrush everything and wear a shower cap to avoid getting the crap in my hair. If you get it on your skin, you need to clean it off immediately or you'll be waiting two weeks for the dead skin cells to flake it off.
Just my two cents.
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Yeah I wanna try the por-15, probably do the bed too. Maybe fluidfilm on nuts n bolts. Jack, did you do your exhaust in por-15 too? All my piping and frame is RUSTED like cheese pizza in some areas. Ginna hit itvwith wire brush or sand paper and do the por 3 step. Thanks for all the good info everyone
Yeah I wanna try the por-15, probably do the bed too. Maybe fluidfilm on nuts n bolts. Jack, did you do your exhaust in por-15 too? All my piping and frame is RUSTED like cheese pizza in some areas. Ginna hit itvwith wire brush or sand paper and do the por 3 step. Thanks for all the good info everyone
POR-15 isn't rated to use on high temp parts like the exhaust. I know there's high temp paint out there for it, but I've heard it doesn't last very long.
It's definitely a pain to do, but once it's done, you'll be happy with it. You can even touch up the parts you miss at a later date. Just make sure whatever you wear, your ready to toss, since that stuff won't come off your clothes. I put a vinyl 8' x 10' tarp down in my driveway to enable me to wipe it up easily and scoot underneath without a creeper since my truck isn't lifted. Just pour out what you plan to use each time in small amounts and clean the lid off well so it doesn't stick and then reseal the can.
If you want to see my work, just do a search under my name and "POR-15" to see what I've done on my first gen tundra. The semi-gloss black comes the closest in appearance to the frame color.
Looking back, I'd probably buy a respirator and use the fluid film if I had a brand new truck.
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"I always give 100% at work: 13% Monday; 22% Tuesday; 26% Wednesday; 35% Thursday; 4% Friday."
Last edited by Jack McCarthy; 01-22-2013 at 12:03 PM.
The paint is thin and drips like crazy if you're painting the frame from underneath. I got a small air sprayer and sprayed it on, made it easier to get in the corners.
Definitely wear a respirator and a face shield. One of those toxic body suits would be best
Acetone will get it off your skin if it's not dry. If you let it dry, well then, sand paper might work.
Acetone will get it off your skin if it's not dry. If you let it dry, well then, sand paper might work.
Yeah, when you start bleeding it should come off.
I used mostly small foam brushes from Home Depot myself and had very little drippage other than when I grabbed more paint. Some areas I had to use it taped to a 12" stick to get in there, especially near the engine crossmember & mounts.
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"I always give 100% at work: 13% Monday; 22% Tuesday; 26% Wednesday; 35% Thursday; 4% Friday."
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Tundra
2008 CrewMax Limited 5.7 / Slate Metallic
