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Ask the Guru - Detailing Questions

304K views 2K replies 212 participants last post by  SteveGT 
#1 · (Edited)
This is the place to ask your detailing questions and our very own resident detail guru will help answer.

For this section of TT, Jumbo Jet is your moderator as well as the Guru. He may also enlist other members to be part of team.

Hope this is helpful & Enjoy!
 
#2 ·
Jumbo Jet, what are your bonafides?
 
#10 ·
I would really like to know what your background and experience in detailing is.
 
#3 ·
What is best to use as a presoak before wand washing?

The best auto car washes always seem to be the ones that apply presoak before turning on the jets. This soak is a weird blue and white foam that they apply and let sit a few minutes. It seems to make all the difference in getting grime off, including
on the front end. :D

.
 
#7 ·
What do you recommend for drying my truck? Seems every time I dry I end up with "fuzzies" all over it from the towel I use. Will a regular chamois work? Better yet, is there something I can wash with that will prevent water spots?
 
#8 ·
I use the "drying with water" method first. If you have a solid layer of sealant on the truck, take the nozzle off of the hose and let the water trickle down and sheet off the vehicle. Start at the top and work your way down. Its amazing how well this technique works on glass. Then I use a leaf blower (gas powered Echo) to dry what little is left. It also gets the water out of the mirrors, bed caps, fuel door and grill. Then pull it in the garage and blot dry the rest with a quality Waffle Weave microfiber drying towel.

If you dont like getting them online, Target has Cobra waffle weave drying towels. They are good towels.
 
#11 ·
Looking to try paint correction out on my Tundra for the first time. I've never done it before and have been reading up a lot on different products. Considering I will only be using on my two vehicles and maybe a friend's vehicle once in a while I was wondering if the Griot's Garage 6" Random Orbital Polisher or Meguiars Dual Action Polisher G110v2 were good enough for my needs vs. something higher priced like the Flex XC3401. I've done everything else before (wash, clay, polish, wax, sealant) by hand and now want to take the next step. Thanks in advance for any advice.
 
#12 ·
Yeah, no need for a Flex if you're just playing around on your own cars. Save that baby for later.

In my opinion the new Griots 6" DA is the best DA out right now. I'd go with that and be done with it. You should feel no need to have to upgrade from the Griots. It's a much better machine than the PC 7424xp. Much more power and way less vibration. Comes in a 10 foot cord model and a 25 foot corded model....way cool. I have the 10 foot model and I love it. All my pads work perfect with it. I use 5.5" Über and Lake Country pads with it, as well as Optimum microfiber pads.

If its your first DA, I'd recommend getting a good start on pads too. Two of each of the main colors will be good to get you rolling. Two yellow, two orange, two white and two red (Lake Country colors). Although, orange will more than likely be your most used color from LC.

Good luck, it's gonna be fun.
 
#13 ·
Jumbo Jet - Thanks...I'll probably order the Griots Garage 6" DA this week. I have a white Tundra with single stage paint (except for repainted front end, hood, and color matched parts w/clear) so i'm thinking of using a Menzerna polish, then finish. Would it be best to use the orange LC pad for polish, then white pad for finish? Planning to finish with Four Star Ultimate Paint Protection or Blackfire Wet Diamond. I would use the red pad for the sealant or any wax right?
 
#14 ·
Great list of products! Have you ever used Four Star PUPP before? That is one awesome sealant, and it leaves one of it not the most slickest finish I've ever used. Whenever I use it, people just can't stop rubbing the back of their hand down the side of the car. It's crazy slick feeling.

If you're using Menzerna and this is your first time using it, I would recommend buying just a few from them. If you're already familiar with it and have some, then disregard. If not, get some SIP 1500 and SF 4000, and some PowerLock to seal, then top that with Four Star PUPP. SIP 1500 is a great compound, and finishes down near perfectly. Pair the 1500 with an orange LC pad and Griots on 4-5. That pad, compound and machine combo should take care of just about everything you'll likely come across. Then a pass with SF4000 and a white pad with the Griots on 3-4 to jewel it out. Top it all off with PowerLock and/or Four Star PUPP with a red finishing pad, Griots on 3. That will have your truck looking better than the day it rolled off the assembly line, and with not much effort.

I have just about the whole line of Menzerna. 1000,1500,2000,2500,4000 and 4500 and the ones I use the most are 1500 and 4000. 1500 will finish down so nicely you can nearly go straight to LSP after it. The rest of the Menzerna line is just as amazing, but those two, plus PowerLock are my go-to's.
 
#15 ·
I haven't used the Four Star product before, but had my bedsides corrected a while back and the detailer used Blackfire Wet Diamond as the finishing product. That product lasted a long time and was very slick so I read your reviews and am trusting that I would like the Four Star product as much or more than the BFWD. This will be my first time using the Menzerna line and first time correcting paint. Thanks for the tip on which Menzerna products to buy...those 2 products are my first choice and come in a bundle on AutoGeek for $50 in 16oz sizes. This is also very tempting for double the size at the same price for similar products Menzerna Intro Kit, Menzerna polishes, Menzerna Final Polish, Intensive polish How many vehicles do you think the 16 or 32oz bottles are good for? What is the advantage/purpose of using the Powerlock before the FourStar or BlackFire sealants?
 
#16 ·
Depends on how much detailing or corrections you're doing. If you're just correcting your own cars, you'll be fine with the 16oz. bottles. Remember, you're only correcting once or twice a year, or as major imperfections arise, not after every wash. So they should last you awhile. But what will most likely happen is that you'll do your truck, your friends will see it, and they'll want theirs done as well. So maybe the 32oz. bottles are a better idea.

PowerLock is Menzerna's synthetic sealant. It's pretty amazing stuff. It's has a very similar crazy slick feel to it like PUPP, but PUPP is still king. However, if you're familiar with BFWD and you like it, then you could go right to that. PowerLock isn't cheap, but you get what you pay for in the world of detailing. I just like PowerLock because of its durability and staying within the same line, but there is no real world benefit of using it over another high end LSP. Just like PUPP and BFWD, PL goes on and off extremely easy.
 
#17 ·
Here's one: I just bought a car that the previous owner smoked in. The smell isn't horrible but I have a nose like a bloodhound and I notice it. I've tried sitting a couple of bowls of coffee in it for a few days and it did help some. I'm trying to avoid spraying a bunch of chemicals in the car since I haul my 1 yo daughter in it some. I've heard about some sort of ozone machines but I also heard that the resulting gases will eat away at any exposed rubber surfaces: not good with a sunroof, not to mention door seals. Any other suggestions?
 
#18 ·
Not sure the exposure time with the Ozone machine will be enough to have any real affect on the rubber. I'll ask some guys I know and let you know what I can come up with.

FWIW, I have used an Ozone machine on my mother's car (Heavy smoker) and left it on all night and then opened it up the next day and to this day that car hasn't had any issues with the rubber seals. (That was 6 years ago)
 
#19 ·
Thanks. When I was told that it kinda set me on edge. In my mind I pictured all the exterior seals turning to powder or something :eek:
 
#20 ·
A couple applications of ozone won't be enough to break down the rubber unless the ozonizer is too large. If you're worried, try a smaller unit around 200mg. Let the ozonizer run for about 20-30 minutes while the fan is running. Hold your nose, shut the car off and then let it run for another 15 minutes. Unplug it and let it sit for an hour then open all the doors.
 
#22 ·
A couple applications of ozone won't be enough to break down the rubber unless the ozonizer is too large. If you're worried, try a smaller unit around 200mg. Let the ozonizer run for about 20-30 minutes while the fan is running. Hold your nose, shut the car off and then let it run for another 15 minutes. Unplug it and let it sit for an hour then open all the doors.
Thanks to both of you. I'll track one down and give it a try.
 
#24 ·
Jumbo - Thanks for the advice on the Menzerna products and pad pairing. Would you recommend 5.5" pads or 6.5" pads? I'm guessing the smaller pad will give more control and the larger pad will be able to cover more surface area, but any other advantages/disadvantages?
 
#25 ·
I use mostly 5.5" flat pads, either Uber or Lake Country. The PC doesnt generate enough torque to properly spin a 6.5" pad. The Flex does, but the PC struggles with them. Take a Sharpie and make a small black line on the back of your backing plate, the side facing you(usually yellow). When the machine is under too much pressure the pad will quit spinning and the mark will be evident.
 
#26 ·
I'm going to be ordering the Griot's Garage 6" Random Orbital tomorrow, does that have enough torque to properly spin a 6.5" pad? Noticed it has a 6" backing plate so I'm guessing it does. If it doesn't then I will need to order a 5" backing plate to use with the 5.5" pads right? Thanks for the sharpie tip.
 
#27 ·
Yes, it will spin the 6.5" pads, but you can better take advantage of its power with the 5.5" pads. I used to love 6.5" pads, but the more I play with the 5.5" pads the more I love them. They are just so much easier to maneuver around contours and tight areas. Everyone's experiences are different, but I prefer the 5.5" flat pads from Uber or Lake Country. The flat pads glide across the surface much smoother, they don't skip or jump like the dimpled pads do.
 
#28 ·
Thanks for the advice. Will go ahead and order the Lake Country 5.5" CCS Smart Pads with the Lake Country 5" backing plate so I can use the pads with the GG 6" DA unit. Gonna start off ordering 2 each of the orange, white, and red pads.
 
#30 ·
For us detailing noobs.....

Jumbo, I really have enjoyed reading your posts on detailing our trucks. As I am a new Tundra owner, and really want to do this baby right, I was wondering if you could break down your process in a step by step manner (including product choice).

I am determined to put the time into this truck to keep her looking great for years to come!

I have tried to glean as much info as I could on al of your other posts. However, I am such a detailing noob that I don't understand 3/4 of your acronyms and abbreviations......:eek:

I am willing to spend the $$ to do it right, so don't be afraid to recommend the good stuff due to price. I am always willing today for good effective products!

Thank you for your input.....:)
 
#31 ·
Sorry for not getting back to you, we were on vacation for a few days.
First and foremost, to do things right and to make things easy, you'll need a good DA polisher. The Porter Cable 7424xp is what most people use, however, I prefer the Griots 6" DA. I fell its a much better machine. It has more power and less vibration than the PC.
Then you'll need pads for it. Most people use foam pads from Lake Country. Orange, white and red are great starting pads, two of each. Also a good supply of quality microfiber towels.

Next would be compounds and polishes. A lot of guys like Meguiars M105 and M205 for correction. I like them also, but I prefer Menzerna polishes. They are much easier to work with and in my opinion provide much better results. I like Menzerna SIP 1500 for compounding, and SF 4000 for jeweling or polishing. Those two, when used with the correct pads will correct most defects, including newer German cars with "ceramic coat" clear coats.

Final sealants are a matter of personal preference. I use different sealants for different colors or ones that work better with whatever polishes I'm using. My go to's are Menzerna PowerLock, Zaino Z2/Z5, Four Star Ultimate Paint Protection (also know as PUPP) and FK1 1000p. Collonites #845 also looks great topped on any one of those.

My process is:

Wash
Clay
Blow dry
Compound (if needed)
Polish and jewel
LSP (last step product)- sealant or wax

Plan to spend a whole day on the initial job, then weekly washes will become much easier and faster.

Hope that helps.
 
#377 ·
Nevemind my last - this is what I was looking for :). Thanks!

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#32 ·
Thank you for the info Jumbo. I am working on getting the DA you recommended. Should have it early next week.

Do you have a preference as far as the soap you use in step 1? And any particular brand of clay?

Thanks


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#33 ·
I really like Meguiars Hyper Wash or Meguairs Gold Class for shampoo. Most over the counter washes are good. Just stay away from Dawn on your cars. The high alkaline content is terrible for rubber seals and plastic trim.

Since Clay Magic still holds the patent on clay (for now), all the clays are the same, just dyed different colors for different manufactures. When looking at clay, be sure it is "fine grade" clay, which is what most auto parts stores sell. I'll buy Clay magic, Mothers, Sonax, Über or anything else rated fine grade.
 
#34 · (Edited)
Jumbo, I got the 6" DA from Griots on order. Now, I am looking to get the CCS pads from Lake Country. I am finding bundle deals, some include a backing plate and some do not. Do I need a backing plate, or does the DA have one on it already?

And just for clarification, when you say "polish & jewel" is that a one step process? Meaning, one product & pad that is applied at the same time?

Thank you for your time....





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#35 ·
I'm not a big fan of the CCS pads. I don't like how the polish cakes up in the dimples....but that's just me. I feel the flat pads are a better pad. They don't tend to skip or hop across the panels like the CCS pads. Buying the bundled pads is a great idea. That way you could get two or more of the most used pads. The ones that seem to get used the most are orange, white and red.

Lake Country 5 1/2 x 7/8 inch Beveled Edge Pads 6 Pack, foam pad kit, build a kit, buffing pads, curved edge pads

I like the 5.5" pads myself. If you buy the 5.5" pads, order the 5" backing plate for the Griots. A 5.5" pad on the 6" backing plate that comes with the Griots is dangerous. The pad will ride right on the edge of the plate, so picking up the 5" backing plate is a good idea.

"Jeweling" is referred to as the last polishing step before you apply your sealant. The final polish that highlights or brings out the depth and clarity from the compounding steps.
 
#38 · (Edited)
Thank you again Jumbo....

This detailing stuff is expensive when its done right huh?!?

I called around here for detailing prices, exterior detailing ranged from $125-$450!!! I suppose the $450 was for the thorough multi-step process you explained above....


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