Hi all, Did my first DIY oil change yesterday. After draining the oil, and pulling the filter canister plug, I discovered my oil filter canister wrench is worthless (slips off). Soooo, I filled the truck with new oil, but left the old filter in place.
I have a K and D filter wrench on the way.
Question is- If I drain the filter canister now (engine is full of oil), how much will come out? My plan would be to capture the oil in a clean container, replace the filter, then put the oil (which has 40 ft. of driving mileage) back in.
Lots of people used to do that, they would replace the filter leave the oil in the engine and simply add a quart of new oil. But I'm pretty sure that would void the warranties these days.
Wait and replace it with the metal filter housing, the plastic one is junk. It's a toyota part for a venza I believe....a search on here should be easy to find it.
I struggled to get my canister off during my first oil change. Then I noticed a little locking tab that kept the canister from turning. I put a small flat-tipped screwdriver on the tab as I turned the filter wrench and it came right off. Look closely. Mine is a 2012.
I don't know if they had the tab on the 2007's. I had one on the 2012 and it was very visible. It pops right off with a screwdriver and I didn't bother to put it back on.
Well, it's done. What a mess, but all cleaned up. I do think there is/was a locking tab, but it looks like the dealer (last to change the oil) bent it out of the way.
The K D oil filter wrench worked great, but boy it took some torque to loosen that thing. And then about 1/3 qt. of oil ran down my arms, even after using the drain thingy.
Lessons learned the hard way are why I do it myself now! Used to take it to the quick lube until I got wise to crap they were pulling...
Take a look at Amsoil or some of the other synthetics. If you don't like changing your oil so frequently, there are some options on extended filters/oils. I change mine once a year and am done.
Thanks again all. I was only kidding (due to high disgust level) about Jiffy lube.
My 2wd TRD has the skid plate- a small drag to get on and off- but I'm glad it's there.
I did use a rubber hose, right into a sterile can. I left it there about 15 minutes, but when I removed the bannister, there was still about 1/3 qt running down my arms.
And yes, I always use synthetic oil- this truck is really only a tow vehicle for the airstream, so things can get hot.
Oh well, I've recovered now and won't have to face this again for awhile- and I'll know more about how to do it.
Also, I don't get the mid-oil change filter replacement. Unless your engine is shedding metal, or you live in a dust bowl, it's hard to imagine the filter would get clogged half way thru an oil change. Standard procedure with the old BMW motorcycles I play with is to change the filter every OTHER oil change.
Just as an update I followed the above link and ran into a link that he sells the item on ebay. The tool also comes with the metal filter housing. Link below:
the tool I'm linking below looks to be a far better option IMHO and is the one I've been using for the last several years on 2 vehicles - the biggest concern I have about the tool in the previous post is stripping/rounding out the square hole when trying to loosen a filter cap that the dealer overtorqued (happened to me twice, thanks ToyotaCare!)... a single cast piece will handle a lot more punishment
Tundra noob here. Just attempted my first oil change and what a joke this whole filter concept is. Mine is an 07 and yep the plastic hex cap is rounded down. Will have to get the tool as well. When I went to walmart to get the filter I got a paper filter cylinder. Did not see a screw-in metal filter that I was expecting (like for every other vehicle in this world). This is my first truck so maybe it's a truck thing? Now, this paper filter is the only oil filter, right?
Also, since we have to take the whole cap off, why is there a smaller metal cap with a square hole in the middle? Is this a drain? When I took this off, I barely got anything out of it (literally like 2 drops). Is anyone replacing the o-ring for this too?
I cant believe I have to ask these noob questions about a filter. In the 15 years I've worked on cars, I've done everything to a vehicle from a heater core to transaxle to clutch to an entire engine transplant and I'm having to ask questions about a silly oil filter. LOL.
Thanks for the info on the tool, that has helped tremendously. I'm not as crazy as I thought I was getting.
Yes, it is a paper filter. It should come with two o-ring rubber gaskets and a white plastic drain tool as well.
Yes, removing the metal cap itself does very little. It has a valve inside that has to pushed in order for the oil to flow out of the filter cap. This is what the plastic drain tool is for. Also, one of the gaskets that came with the filter is used for this o-ring.
There is a DIY oil change thread here and over at TS that might help explain things better. One trick for the plastic drain valve is to use a wine bottle to give you some extra leverage.
Thanks guys. I was wondering what the person was saying about the wine bottle and all that jazz, now I understand. I never even THOUGHT there'd need to be a write up on oil changes, so sorry I never checked there. having read it, I can see why. lol. crazy. I'll have an opinion on paper vs. screw on very soon. lol now it's work time.
I hear ya. When you're expecting a plug and screw on filter then see you got an underbody cover, o rings, special tool inventions and a plastic cap with locking mechanism and what I'm anticipating is going to be an armful of oil I can see why. Believe me I'd rather do this than say a heater core. I used to have a couple Mr2s and the clutch slave cylinder was just awful. Toyota has certainly done worse in designs LOL
thanks for the heads up on the skidplate. mine is a non TRD, but i will look to see of there is any signs of one formerly being on there, next time i am under it of course.
Just for the record my 07 2wd 5.7L has a skid plate.
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