[xhemidriver]

Lets set the record straight.... I am a Toy fan at heart. However I just traded in my QC 4x4 hemi and some of the bashing on here is a little over the top.

I would just like to set the record straight and give a few helpfull pointers as we hemi drivers went through the same thing you tundra truck owners are going through now. (Little to no aftermarket help)

1st - These claims of x hemi's qc 4x4's running a 100 shot of the funny stuff only pulling a 14.5 1/4 is sad. My 6545 lbs (on race day) qc 4x4 w/ 3.55 and a peg leg would run 15.7 right out the box. with exhaust, cai, and hypertech i would run a 15.3 w/ a 2.6 60' (do to the peg leg) Most of my friends w/ 3.92 possi's were cutting 1.9-2.1 60's all day. 1 10th in the 60 is good for 2 10ths at the trap. You do the math.

2nd - the dodge ecm sucks moose d*&k! Even with nos is takes 10-20 passes before the ecm starts to learn and make adjustments. Your should expect the same. I have personlly whatched a Dodge runnin a 125 shot drop 1.5sec in the 1/4 over the span of 10 runs or so from his first pass on nos without making a single change and cutting a consistant 1.6 60 every run.

3rd - all dodges (except the 03's) have a nazi tcm (torque contol management) computer. This is where most of the power to the ground gets lost on the hemi's. The tcm tells the ecm to retard fuel and timing off the line in an effort to eliminate converter slippage. On the 03's you can pull a wire going into the ecm that keeps max tranny pressure at all times and cuts a strong .5 off the 1/4 time. This is the main reason why you can nail a Hemi off the line put he pulls you around the 1000ft mark.

4th - Yes stock to stock simular trucks the tundra is faster. make no mistake about it. However a stock 2wd RCSB Hemi with a driver that knows how to use the truck can run 14.4-14.5 all day. If you hesitate, blink, etc you will get beat. 4-5 10ths in the 14 sec class is only 3/4-1 car car length or so.

5th - Hemi's are 5 speeds not 4. (Even if the top two gears are both OD ratios.

6th - Top end, any hemi will eat just about anything else on the road given the right driver. (They have the best 2nd gear gearing around) This includes a Tundra, 350Z and will even run door to door with a C5. Its hard to get 5000+ lbs moving but once it does good by. (Agian why you get passed around the 1000ft mark when you have a hemi beat by 1-2 trucks off the line. This goes back the the TCM agian)

IE> PAY ATTENTION HERE - SEE IF THIS WORKS IN THE NEW TUNDRAS

Dodges like to short shift from 3rd into 4th (the 1st od) At this point they are just about out of juice. HOWEVER

.
.
PAY ATTENTION - Once in 3rd gear if you pull the shifter out of drive down into 2nd once you have exceeded the top speed for 2nd gear (the ecm is smart enought to know not to down shift) it will hold the truck in 3rd gear. Then once you hit the governed speed you turn the key to start and hold it there. (Again the ecm is smart enough to know the truck is already on) This shuts down all ecm and tcm management of the drivetrain. As such you have no top speed limiter. My 4x4 qc on 35's w/ 3.55s and 6" lift would run 155-156 top end at 5200 rpm or so. (It did burn almost 1/2 a tank of go juice in about 10 miles though) Wind resistance of a brick SUCKS!

7th - A stock hemi will dyno between 245-265 hp at the wheel not 212 as i have seen posted. (Yes still well shy of the 289-295 of the tundra)

8th - ALL CRYSLER PRODUCTS SUCK! They are the only manfacturer that clearly states they only build autos to run to 100,000 miles. After that they don't much care what happens to them. Since they suck sooo much they decided to put a paper thin bottom end (Built in Mex) in the 5.7 hemi. Yes many have blown up. MOST that are driven hard will drop a valve around 50-60,000 miles. Mine droped the valve on cylinder #6 at 52,000.

9th - PAY ATTENTION THIS WAS GOOD FOR ABOUT 2-3 10ths (60ft time) IN A HEMI.......

Go to your local auto parts store and spend $10 on a set of spring clamps (For Leaf Springs dummy) Used them to compress the rear of the overload leaf all the way to the rest of the spring pack. (They look just like Metal C's with a screw in the middle) This will drop your rear 1-1/2 to 2" in height and tighten of the rear end eliminating wheel hop. (Act just like a set of Traction bars for a fraction of the cost)

10th - Exhausts are a waste of money. You would have to be putting down 500-600 hp before your exhaust would make a difference. HOWEVER - you should remove your Cat and Muffler and replace them with just regular pipe. If you have emisions to deal with (we have none in Florida) buy a $40 set of old school manual cutouts. $500 exhaust systems are for dummy's.

11th - I will assume the new Tundras have some sort of TCM as all new trucks do. PAY ATTENTION - One way to get around this in the Hemi's was.... do your burnout to warm your tires then pre-stage (quickly before the other person) and turn off your truck. Once the other person is stages start your truck and inch forward to stage. We found out that is takes the ecm/tcm around 20sec to boot up. Believe it of not this would gain us 15 hp on the dyno.

12th - INTAKES ARE A WASTE OF MONEY - Just pull the stock filter out when you race. (This was good for 1-2 10ths) Any one who knows will tell you that 200cfm (ball park #) is plenty for any motor up to about 4-500 hp. (Except for a deisel with a 20:1 compression ratio) Make a trip to Home Depot. Buy some dryer vent hose, pull your air box and clamp the dryer hose to the intake hose and run it to the bottom front of the truck. This was good for 3 10ths at the track.

13th - ALWAYS ALWAYS Race with tow/haul mode! This increases tranny line pressure, making quicker harder shifts and locks the tc sooner giving you 100% power to the ground (minus lossed dut to rotatin masses). Should be good for 1-2 10ths.

14th - Traction control is for dummys. Buy a good set of tires for the track like MT ET's. Traction control robs you of power. As any expierenced racer and he/she will tell you that you can gain 1/2 - 1 sec with slicks VS street tires. I don't care if you spent $400 per tire on nittos or Toyo. You wasted your money. Sorry.

BASHING HEMI's will get you know where. If you would spend some time asking some of the "Expierenced" Hemi owners they could help you to make your Tundra run Close to a 13.5 1/4 for around $5-600. (2wd RCSB) Maybe even break into the 12sec class for around $1000 or so. I know of several hemis that run low 13's on motor with no more than $2500 Parts. Go to DodgeTruckWorld.COM. Most of them would be glad to help. The only problem may be finding one of us original Hemi Truck guys. Unfortunatly The aftermarket just isn't going to offer too much for the Tundra. Toy likes to keep all thier info to themselves where others share info with the aftermarket.

TO THOSE OF YOU WHO WANT A PROGRAMER, Call Superchips. They are down here in Orlando FL. They worked hand in hand with us in designing the Hemi programmer. When they know there is demand they will be more than happy to borrow a few local Tundras and get to work. They are the most end-user friendly company I've come across.