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leach · 10-05-2008, 04:47 AM

I just changed the oil on my RCSB 5.7 at 4,000 miles. Because of info like the instructions on this forum, the job was fairly easy. It wouldn't have been so easy otherwise. First, the skid plate was a little awkward but it the complaints seem overrated. I didn't have any trouble removing or re-installing it other than the time working with the excessive number of screws and bolts. The picture showing which holes that the "hooked brackets" fit into was very helpful for the re-install. The statements that the oil drains quickly towards the passenger side tire/wheel and makes a mess are understatements. The oil covered my tire with oil!! The next time I do this, I'm going to cover the tire with a plastic bag or something.

Some have said that the oil drain plug (bolt) doesn't have a washer but there is a fiber washer that stayed stuck to the oil pan. Mine was in good shape so I re-used it but I may change it next time. I used a Purolator filter purchased from Pep Boys that came with a "screw on" oil filter drain. It worked good to easily drain the filter assembly. Next, removing the filter housing requires a good filter wrench. The KD tools wrench worked well but I had to tap it into place because it fit pretty tightly. I don't know how anyone could remove the housing with a plastic tool because I had to apply quite a bit of force to break it free (get the KD tools #3253 or equivalent). With the filter removed from the housing, I saw some small metallic particles but they were extremely hard to clean from the filter housing. The filter slips over a perforated tube that is held in place by brackets on the bottom of the housing. The metallic particles under the bracket were a living hell to get to. Another problem was that the holes in the perforated tube were not machined smooth so small pieces of the filter broke loose when I slipped on the new filter. I cleaned these as best that I could but a dealer certainly wouldn't take the time to do this. Consequently, the particles would probably cycle through your engine at least once until they burn up or are caught by the filter after they're circulated. This is a ridiculous design idea. It may be better for the environment, but it's at the expense of the protection to your truck's engine.

Anyway, the assembly went back together pretty easy and I filled the truck with Pennzoil Platinum. By the way, I don't particularly like Walmart, but the oil there is much cheaper than anywhere else that I've found (another fact that I learned in these forums). I got the Pennzoil for about $4.00 per quart vs about $6.99 everywhere else I looked (Mobil 1 was much cheaper there too but I've had good luck with Pennzoil in the past).

All in all, the job took me about 1.5 hours and will only take about 0.5 hours next time now that I know what to expect.

10-05-2008, 04:47 AM	#98 (permalink)
leach Junior Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 4	My First Oil Change Experience I just changed the oil on my RCSB 5.7 at 4,000 miles. Because of info like the instructions on this forum, the job was fairly easy. It wouldn't have been so easy otherwise. First, the skid plate was a little awkward but it the complaints seem overrated. I didn't have any trouble removing or re-installing it other than the time working with the excessive number of screws and bolts. The picture showing which holes that the "hooked brackets" fit into was very helpful for the re-install. The statements that the oil drains quickly towards the passenger side tire/wheel and makes a mess are understatements. The oil covered my tire with oil!! The next time I do this, I'm going to cover the tire with a plastic bag or something. Some have said that the oil drain plug (bolt) doesn't have a washer but there is a fiber washer that stayed stuck to the oil pan. Mine was in good shape so I re-used it but I may change it next time. I used a Purolator filter purchased from Pep Boys that came with a "screw on" oil filter drain. It worked good to easily drain the filter assembly. Next, removing the filter housing requires a good filter wrench. The KD tools wrench worked well but I had to tap it into place because it fit pretty tightly. I don't know how anyone could remove the housing with a plastic tool because I had to apply quite a bit of force to break it free (get the KD tools #3253 or equivalent). With the filter removed from the housing, I saw some small metallic particles but they were extremely hard to clean from the filter housing. The filter slips over a perforated tube that is held in place by brackets on the bottom of the housing. The metallic particles under the bracket were a living hell to get to. Another problem was that the holes in the perforated tube were not machined smooth so small pieces of the filter broke loose when I slipped on the new filter. I cleaned these as best that I could but a dealer certainly wouldn't take the time to do this. Consequently, the particles would probably cycle through your engine at least once until they burn up or are caught by the filter after they're circulated. This is a ridiculous design idea. It may be better for the environment, but it's at the expense of the protection to your truck's engine. Anyway, the assembly went back together pretty easy and I filled the truck with Pennzoil Platinum. By the way, I don't particularly like Walmart, but the oil there is much cheaper than anywhere else that I've found (another fact that I learned in these forums). I got the Pennzoil for about $4.00 per quart vs about $6.99 everywhere else I looked (Mobil 1 was much cheaper there too but I've had good luck with Pennzoil in the past). All in all, the job took me about 1.5 hours and will only take about 0.5 hours next time now that I know what to expect.